Pilgrims' Way

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Pilgrims' Way
Pilgrims' Way to the South of the White Horse Stone (I).jpg
The Pilgrims' Way as it passes the White Horse Stone, Kent
Length192 km (119 mi)
LocationSouth Eastern England, United Kingdom
Trailheads Winchester, Hampshire
Shrine of Thomas Becket, Canterbury, Kent
UseHiking, cycling and byway; former pilgrim way
SeasonAll year

The Pilgrims' Way (also Pilgrim's Way or Pilgrims Way) [lower-alpha 1] is the historical route supposedly taken by pilgrims from Winchester in Hampshire, England, to the shrine of Thomas Becket at Canterbury in Kent. This name, of comparatively recent coinage, is applied to a pre-existing ancient trackway dated by archaeological finds to 600450 BC, but probably in existence since the Stone Age. [1] [2] The prehistoric route followed the "natural causeway" east to west on the southern slopes of the North Downs. [3]

Contents

The course was dictated by the natural geography: it took advantage of the contours, avoided the sticky clay of the land below but also the thinner, overlying "clay with flints" of the summits. [4] In places a coexisting ridgeway and terrace way can be identified; the route followed would have varied with the season, but it would not drop below the upper line of cultivation. [5] [6] The trackway ran the entire length of the North Downs, leading to and from Folkestone: the pilgrims would have had to turn away from it, north along the valley of the Great Stour near Chilham, to reach Canterbury.

History

Map of Pilgrims Way near Titsey, Surrey. The upper route, on the brow of the North Downs, is the ancient trackway (note the archaeological finds at the top left); the lower, almost in the valley, is the route surmised by the Ordnance Survey in the 19th century Pilgrims Way Titsey.jpg
Map of Pilgrims Way near Titsey, Surrey. The upper route, on the brow of the North Downs, is the ancient trackway (note the archaeological finds at the top left); the lower, almost in the valley, is the route surmised by the Ordnance Survey in the 19th century
A section of the lower route, eroded into the slope, in Surrey Pilgrims Way - geograph.org.uk - 621078.jpg
A section of the lower route, eroded into the slope, in Surrey

The prehistoric trackway extended further than the present Way, providing a link from the narrowest part of the English Channel to the important religious complexes of Avebury and Stonehenge, in Wiltshire, where it is known as the Harroway. The way then existed as "broad and ill-defined corridors of movement up to half a mile wide" and not as a single, well-defined track. [7] [8] The route was still followed as an artery for through traffic in Roman times, a period of continuous use of more than 3000 years. [2]

From Thomas Becket's canonization in 1173, until the dissolution of the monasteries in 1538, his shrine at Canterbury became the most important in the country, indeed "after Rome...the chief shrine in Christendom", [9] and it drew pilgrims from far and wide. Winchester, apart from being an ecclesiastical centre in its own right (the shrine of St Swithin), was an important regional focus and an aggregation point for travellers arriving through the seaports on the south coast. [4] It is "widely accepted" that this was the route taken by Henry II on his pilgrimage of atonement for the death of Bishop Thomas, from France to Canterbury in July 1174, although this has been disputed and some evidence points to his having taken a route via London. [10] [11] Travellers from Winchester to Canterbury naturally used the ancient way, as it was the direct route, and research by local historians has provided much by way of detail—sometimes embellished—of the pilgrims' journeys. The numbers making their way to Canterbury by this route were not recorded, but the estimate by the Kentish historian William Coles Finch that it carried more than 100,000 pilgrims a year is surely an exaggeration; a more prosaic estimate—extrapolated from the records of pilgrims' offerings at the shrine—contends an annual figure closer to 1,000. [12] [13] [14] A separate (and more reliably attested) route to Canterbury from London was by way of Watling Street, as followed by the storytellers in The Canterbury Tales by Geoffrey Chaucer. [13]

Conversely, the concept of a single route called the Pilgrims' Way could be no older than the Victorian Ordnance Survey map of Surrey, whose surveyor, Edward Renouard James, published a pamphlet in 1871 entitled Notes on the Pilgrims' Way in West Surrey. While acknowledging that the route was "little studied" and that "very many persons in the neighbourhood had not been aware of it", he nonetheless caused the name to be inserted on the Ordnance Survey map, giving official sanction to his conjecture. [15] Romantic writers such as Hilaire Belloc were eager to follow this up and they succeeded in creating "a fable of...modern origin" to explain the existence of the Way. [16] [2] In fact, the route as shown on modern maps is not only unsuitable for the mass movement of travellers but has also left few traces of their activity. [13] [17] The official history of the Ordnance Survey acknowledges the "enduring archaeological blunder", blaming the enthusiasm for history of the then Director, General Sir Henry James. [18] However, F. C. Elliston-Erwood, a Kentish historian, notes that tithe records dating from before 1815 use the well established name "Pilgrims' Way" to reference and locate pieces of land. [13] Earlier still, surviving thirteenth century documents show a "Pilgrim Road" by the walls of Thornham Castle, Kent, on what is today considered the route. [11] [19]

The Pilgrims' Way is at the centre of the Powell and Pressburger film A Canterbury Tale , with the camera panning along a map of the route at the start of the film. [20]

Route

In the Middle Ages the pilgrims' route left the ancient trackway to climb St Martha's Hill St Martha Hill.jpg
In the Middle Ages the pilgrims' route left the ancient trackway to climb St Martha's Hill
On the Pilgrims' Way near Trottiscliffe, Kent Pilgrims way trosley.jpg
On the Pilgrims' Way near Trottiscliffe, Kent

Anyone walking the 'Pilgrims Way' from Winchester would have started along the Roman road east following the route through New Alresford, Four Marks, Alton and Bentley to Farnham. This roughly follows the modern A31.

The ancient main streets of towns along the route from Farnham (where the old trackway converges with the pilgrims' route) [2] through Guildford, Dorking and Reigate align west to east, strongly suggesting that this was the most important route that passed through them. On modern Ordnance Survey maps, part of the route is shown running east from Farnham via the heights by Guildford Castle, then north of the village of Shere, north of Dorking, Reigate, Merstham, Chaldon, Godstone, Limpsfield and Westerham, through Otford, Kemsing and Wrotham, north of Trottiscliffe, towards Cuxton (where it crossed the River Medway). South of Rochester, the Pilgrims' Way travels through the villages of Burham, Boxley, Detling and continuing in a south-east direction to the north of the villages of Harrietsham and Lenham. The route continues south-east along the top of the Downs past Charing, to Wye and then turns north to follow the valley of the Great Stour through Chilham and on to Canterbury.

Along some stretches the pilgrims' route left the ancient trackway to encompass religious sites, examples being Pewley Down, near Guildford, where the later way passed St Martha's Hill and St Catherine's chantry chapel, some 500 metres to the south. [2] At Reigate the thirteenth-century chapel of St Thomas and a hospice were built for the pilgrims' use, although they were not on the route. [21] [22] Boxley Abbey, with its revered Rood of Grace, was another recognised detour. [23]

National Trail

The North Downs Way National Trail parallels the old Pilgrims' Way between Farnham and Canterbury. Much of the traditional route of the Pilgrims' Way is now part of the modern road network and the Ramblers have previously advised walkers wishing to follow it to use St. Swithun's Way between Winchester and Farnham and the North Downs Way between Farnham and Canterbury as an alternative. [24]

The route also links with the South Downs Way at Winchester.

Notes

  1. All three usages are noted on Ordnance Survey maps

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Surrey</span> County of England

Surrey is a ceremonial county in South East England and one of the home counties. It is bordered by Greater London to the northeast, Kent to the east, East and West Sussex to the south, and Hampshire and Berkshire to the west. The largest settlement is Woking.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Farnham</span> Market town in Surrey, England

Farnham is a market town and civil parish in Surrey, England, around 36 miles (58 km) southwest of London. It is in the Borough of Waverley, close to the county border with Hampshire. The town is on the north branch of the River Wey, a tributary of the Thames, and is at the western end of the North Downs. The civil parish, which includes the villages of Badshot Lea, Hale and Wrecclesham, covers 14.1 sq mi (37 km2) and had a population of 39,488 in 2011.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Reigate and Banstead</span> Borough and non-metropolitan district in England

Reigate and Banstead is a local government district with borough status in Surrey, England. Its council is based in Reigate and the borough also includes the towns of Banstead, Horley and Redhill. Parts of the borough are within the Surrey Hills, a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Northern parts of the borough, including Banstead, lie inside the M25 motorway which encircles London.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">South Downs Way</span> Long-distance footpath in the south of England

The South Downs Way is a long distance footpath and bridleway running along the South Downs in southern England. It is one of 16 National Trails in England and Wales. The trail runs for 160 km (100 mi) from Winchester in Hampshire to Eastbourne in East Sussex, with about 4,150 m (13,620 ft) of ascent and descent.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">North Downs Way</span> Long-distance footpath in the south of England

The North Downs Way National Trail is a long-distance path in southern England, opened in 1978. It runs from Farnham to Dover, past Guildford, Dorking, Merstham, Otford and Rochester, along the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and Kent Downs AONB.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hog's Back</span> Hill in Surrey, England

The Hog's Back is a hilly ridge, part of the North Downs in Surrey, England. It runs between Farnham in the west and Guildford in the east.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">A25 road</span> Road in southern England

The A25 road is an east–west main road in the South-East of England. Its carries traffic east from Guildford, Surrey, eastward through Surrey and into mid-west Kent, to the town of Sevenoaks, and then on to Wrotham Heath where it connects with the A20.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">A31 road</span> Major trunk road in southern England

The A31 is a major trunk road in southern England that runs from Guildford in Surrey to Bere Regis in Dorset. Its most well known section is the Hog's Back, a hilly ridge forming part of the North Downs, in the Surrey stretch between Guildford and Farnham.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">North Downs Line</span> Railway line in southern England

The North Downs Line is a railway line in South East England. It runs for 41 miles 40 chains (66.8 km) from Reading in Berkshire to Redhill in Surrey. It is named after the North Downs, a range of chalk hills that runs parallel to the eastern part of the route. The name was introduced in 1989 by Network SouthEast, the then operator. The North Downs Line serves the settlements in the Blackwater Valley as well as the towns of Guildford, Dorking and Reigate. It acts as an orbital route around the south and southwest of London and has direct connections to the Great Western Main Line at Reading, the Waterloo-Reading line at Wokingham, the Alton line at Ash, the Portsmouth Direct Line at Guildford and the Brighton Main Line at Redhill.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">St Swithun's Way</span> Long-distance footpath in England

St Swithun's Way is a 34-mile (55 km) long-distance footpath in England from Winchester Cathedral, Hampshire to Farnham, Surrey. It is named after Swithun, a 9th-century Bishop of Winchester, and roughly follows the Winchester to Farnham stretch of the Pilgrims' Way. The route was opened in 2002 to mark the Golden Jubilee of Elizabeth II.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Historic roads and trails</span> Historical trail or road

Historic roads are paths or routes that have historical importance due to their use over a period of time. Examples exist from prehistoric times until the early 20th century. They include ancient trackways, long-lasting roads, important trade routes, and migration trails. Many historic routes, such as the Silk Road, the Amber Road, and the Royal Road of the Persian Empire, covered great distances and their impact on human settlements remain today.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Greensand Way</span> Long-distance path in England

The Greensand Way is a long-distance path of 108 miles (174 km) in southeast England, from Haslemere in Surrey to Hamstreet in Kent. It follows the Greensand Ridge along the Surrey Hills and Chart Hills. The route is mostly rural, passing through woods, and alongside fruit orchards and hop farms in Kent and links with the Stour Valley Walk near Pluckley in Kent. The trail was opened on 15 June 1980 and is jointly managed by Surrey and Kent Councils who fully updated it in 2012.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Earlswood</span> Human settlement in England

Earlswood is a suburb of Redhill in Surrey, England, which lies on the A23 between Redhill and Horley. Earlswood Common is a local nature reserve that separates the suburb from the southern outskirts of Reigate and has two lakes and picnic areas. Earlswood station is on the Brighton Main Line. To the east of the line are Royal Earlswood Park, the East Surrey Hospital and Whitebushes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Betchworth</span> Human settlement in England

Betchworth is a village and civil parish in the Mole Valley district of Surrey, England. The village centre is on the north bank of the River Mole and south of the A25 road, almost 3 miles (4.8 km) east of Dorking and 3 miles (4.8 km) west of Reigate. London is 19.5 miles (31.4 km) north of the village.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">St Martha's Hill</span>

St Martha's Hill is a landmark in St Martha in Surrey, England between the town of Guildford and village of Chilworth. It is the 18th highest hill in the county and on the Greensand Ridge, in this case at the closest point to the North Downs, commencing to the immediate north at the Guildown-Merrow Down in the parishes of Guildford and Merrow. The top of the hill provides a semi-panorama of Newland's Corner also in the Surrey Hills AONB. Its church is the main amenity of the small parish extending to the south into the streets of Chilworth, with some medieval stone incorporations from a 12th-century predecessor and is a wedding venue mainly to outside the sparsely populated parish.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stour Valley Walk</span> Recreational walking route in England

The Stour Valley Walk is a recreational walking route that follows the River Stour, through the Low Weald and Kent Downs, from its source at Lenham to its estuary at Pegwell Bay.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Harrow Way</span> Ancient trackway

The Harrow Way is another name for the "Old Way", an ancient trackway in the south of England, dated by archaeological finds to 600–450 BC, but probably in existence since the Stone Age. The Old Way ran from Seaton in Devon to Dover, Kent. Later the eastern part of the Harrow Way become known as the Pilgrims' Way in the 19th century: the latter was a route invented by Albert Way of the Ordnance Survey, who imagined it to have been a pilgrimage route which ran from Winchester, Hampshire, via Farnham, Surrey, to Canterbury Kent. The western section of the Harrow Way ends in Farnham, the eastern in Dover.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Betsom's Hill</span>

Betsom's Hill is a hill on the North Downs. Situated between Westerham and Tatsfield, at the western edge of the county, it lies close to where the A233 crosses the Downs en route to Biggin Hill. This is the highest part of the North Downs, with Botley Hill the highest point, nearby to the west. The hill lies at the western end of the Kent Downs, an area of outstanding natural beauty.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sandling, Maidstone</span> Human settlement in England

Sandling is a hamlet to the north of the town of Maidstone, Kent, England, at the foot of the North Downs. It falls within the parish of Boxley.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Caesar's Camp, Rushmoor and Waverley</span> Iron Age hillfort in Hampshire, England

Caesar's Camp is an Iron Age hill fort straddling the border of the counties of Surrey and Hampshire in southern England. The fort straddles the borough of Waverley in Surrey and the borough of Rushmoor and the district of Hart, both in Hampshire. Caesar's Camp is a Scheduled Ancient Monument with a list entry identification number of 1007895. It lies approximately 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) north of the town of Farnham, and a similar distance west of Aldershot. The hillfort lies entirely within the Bourley and Long Valley Site of Special Scientific Interest. Caesar's Camp is a multivallate hillfort, a fort with multiple defensive rings, occupying an irregular promontory, with an entrance on the south side. The site has been much disturbed by military activity, especially at the southeast corner. The remains of the hillfort are considered to be of national importance.

References

  1. Brayley, Edward (1850). A topographical history of Surrey. Vol. 4. London: G Willis. p. 218. OCLC   4601837.
  2. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Margary, Ivan D (1948). Roman Ways in the Weald. London: J M Dent. pp. 260–263. ISBN   0-460-07742-2.
  3. Fagg, C. C.; Hutchings, G. E. (1928). "Prehistory". In Ogilvie, Alan Grant (ed.). Great Britain: essays in regional geography. Tansley, A. G. Cambridge, England: Cambridge University Press. p. 29. OCLC   59447377.
  4. 1 2 Wright, Christopher John (1971). A Guide to the Pilgrims' Way. Constable and Co, London. ISBN   0-09-456240-7
  5. Encyclopædia Britannica (1998) Pilgrims' Way.
  6. Wooldridge, Sidney; Hutchings, Geoffrey (1957). London's Countryside : Geographical field work for students and teachers of geography . London: Methuen. p.  121. OCLC   788928682.
  7. Castleden, Rodney (1987). "The High Roads". The Stonehenge People: An Exploration of Life in Neolithic Britain, 4700-2000 BC. Routledge. p.  114. ISBN   0-7102-0968-1.
  8. Crawford, Osbert (1953). Archaeology in the Field. London: Phoenix House. p. 7. OCLC   30245154.
  9. Wright (1971: 16)
  10. Cartwright, Julia (1911). The Pilgrims' Way: From Winchester to Canterbury. London: John Murray. p. 5. OCLC   559472322.
  11. 1 2 Hooper, Wilfrid (1936). "The Pilgrims' Way and its supposed pilgrim use" (PDF). Surrey Archaeological Collections. 44. Guildford: Surrey Archaeological Society: 53. A Pipe Roll record for the hire of horses for the King's escort to London is extant.
  12. Finch, William Coles (1925). In Kentish pilgrim land, its ancient roads and shrines. London: Charles William Daniel. p. 77. OCLC   6213389.
  13. 1 2 3 4 Elliston-Erwood, F.C. (1925). "The "Pilgrim's Way" its antiquity and its alleged Mediæval Use" (PDF). Archaeologia Cantiana . 37: 1–20. Open Access logo PLoS transparent.svg
  14. Hooper (1936) 44 "In their train have followed the host of guide-books and popular writers who have expanded and embellished ad libitum as fancy prompted".
  15. James, Edward Renouard (1871). Notes on the Pilgrims Way in West Surrey. London: Edward Stanford. p. 6. OCLC   560914994.
  16. Belloc, Hilaire (1904). The Old Road. London: John Constable. OCLC   70731922.
  17. Parker, Eric (1947). "The Pilgrims Way". Surrey. London: Hale. OCLC   4320463.
  18. Owen, Tim; Pilbeam, Elaine (1992). Ordnance Survey. Southampton, England: Ordnance Survey. p. 64. ISBN   0-319-00498-8.
  19. Ordnance Survey (1957). 172 Chatham & Maidstone (Map). 1:63360. Chessington, England.
  20. Hauser, Kitty (2007). "From Pilgrims' Way to the railway". Shadow Sites: Photography, Archaeology, and the British Landscape, 1927-1955. Oxford, England: Oxford University Press. pp. 256–261. ISBN   978-0-19-920632-2.
  21. Wright (1971: 134)
  22. Malden, Henry Elliot, ed. (1902). A history of the County of Surrey. Vol. 3. London: Constable. pp. 229–245. OCLC   2979914.
  23. Cartwright 1911: pp 147–149
  24. North Downs Way National Trail. Page archived (as at 2012-07-28) from the Ramblers' Association, accessed 2013-04-29

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