Irish lace

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Sample of Irish Lace in Carrickmacross lace style Carrickmacross lace.jpg
Sample of Irish Lace in Carrickmacross lace style

Irish lace has always been an important part of the Irish needlework tradition. Both needlepoint and bobbin laces were made in Ireland before the middle of the eighteenth century, but never, apparently, on a commercial scale. It was promoted by Irish aristocrats such as Lady Arabella Denny, the famous philanthropist, who used social and political connections to support the new industry and promote the sale of Irish lace abroad. Lady Denny, working in connection with the Dublin Society, introduced lace-making into the Dublin workhouses, especially among the children there. [1] It is thought that it was an early form of Crochet, imitating the appearance of Venetian Gros Point lace.

Contents

History

The skill of lacemaking soon spread beyond Dublin to the poorest parts of the country; it proved a popular means for young women to help support their families. Lace-making required little equipment beyond bobbins and fine cotton or linen thread, and a great deal of patience, so was suitable for remote parts of the country that had little industry and few employment options. [2]

The lace, worn by the wealthiest women across Europe, was made by some of the poorest women in Ireland. Lace was a luxury commodity, used to decorate elaborate wedding dresses, christening robes, and church vestments; it played a vital part in saving many families from starvation and destitution. Irish lace reflects the social and political changes that took place between 1700 and the present.

Several lacemaking schools were established throughout Ireland, with some regions acquiring reputations for high-quality products. Different parts of the country produced distinctive types of lace, and discerning customers would soon learn to ask for Carrickmacross lace (County Monaghan) or Kenmare lace (County Kerry), and Youghal lace (County Cork) among others, depending upon their favoured style. Limerick lace (also known as Tambour lace, because of its manner of manufacture) became well known from the 1830s onwards. Also, see 'Headford Lace Project' for details of Headford (Galway) bobbin lace from around 1765 to 1900.

When times were hard, women had to find ways of supporting their families. This was particularly true during and after the Great Famine of the 1840s. [3] During that time period, many Catholic nuns in Ireland were familiar with how to make Venetian lace. Because most Irish women could do needlework, the nuns realized their lace-making skills presented an opportunity to help save people from the famine. They created schools to teach many girls and women how to produce the fine crochet that has come to be known as "Irish lace." [4]

Irish Crochet and Tatting travelled particularly well as the equipment needed was simple, a ball of cotton and a shuttle for Tatting and a simple crochet hook and cotton for Irish Crochet lace. [5]

Kenmare lace

Kenmare lace is a needlepoint Irish lace based on the detached buttonhole stitch. (It is sometimes called needle-lace to distinguish it from canvas needlepoint.) Linen thread was used by nuns to make needlepoint lace. Suitable linen thread is no longer available, so today cotton thread is used.

Kenmare needlepoint lace [6] begins with two pieces of cloth. Over this is layered a pattern and a matt contact. Thread is laid over the top in the outline of the design and secured with a fine detached buttonhole stitch in a process called "couching". The pattern is filled in by working in from the outline. The tension makes the pattern. How tightly the stitches are pulled determines whether the pattern's stitches are open or tight. When the work is finished, the thread holding down the outline is cut, thus releasing the lace from the cloth backing.

Carrickmacross lace

Carrickmacross lace was introduced into Ireland in about 1820 by Mrs Grey Porter of Donaghmoyne, who taught it to local women so that they could earn some extra money. The scheme was initially of limited success, and it was only after the 1846 famine, when a lace school was set up by the managers of the Bath and Shirley estates at Carrickmacross as a means of helping their starving tenants, that the lace became known and found sales. [7]

Youghal lace

Youghal lace was a top-quality commercial product that ended with the First World War. Lace Making was taught in Youghal in 1845 by the Presentation Sisters. Mother Mary Ann Smith reverse-engineered some Italian lace to understand how it was made. She then taught the technique to local women and thus the school of lace began. [8]

Limerick lace

Limerick lace (also known as Tambour lace, because of its manner of manufacture) became well known from the 1830s onwards. following the establishment of a lace-making factory in the city by an English businessman, Charles Walker, a native of Oxfordshire. In 1829, he brought over 24 girls to teach lacemaking in Limerick, drawn to the area by the availability of cheap, skilled female labour, and his business thrived: within a few short years his lace factories employed almost 2,000 women and girls. [9]

Irish Crochet lace

Irish crochet lace was developed in mid-nineteenth century Ireland as a method of imitating expensive Venetian point laces. [10] It was initially taught in convents throughout the country and used as part of Famine Relief Schemes. Charity groups sought to revive the economy by teaching crochet lace technique at no charge to anyone willing to learn. [11] This type of lace is characterized by separately crocheted motifs, which were later assembled into a mesh background.

Places to see Irish lace

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crochet</span> Technique of creating lace or fabric from thread using a hook

Crochet is a process of creating textiles by using a crochet hook to interlock loops of yarn, thread, or strands of other materials. The name is derived from the French term crochet, meaning 'hook'. Hooks can be made from a variety of materials, such as metal, wood, bamboo, or plastic. The key difference between crochet and knitting, beyond the implements used for their production, is that each stitch in crochet is completed before the next one is begun, while knitting keeps many stitches open at a time. Some variant forms of crochet, such as Tunisian crochet and broomstick lace, do keep multiple crochet stitches open at a time.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tatting</span> Craft of making lace with loops and knots using a small shuttle

Tatting is a technique for handcrafting a particularly durable lace from a series of knots and loops. Tatting can be used to make lace edging as well as doilies, collars, accessories such as earrings and necklaces, and other decorative pieces. The lace is formed by a pattern of rings and chains formed from a series of cow hitch or half-hitch knots, called double stitches, over a core thread. Gaps can be left between the stitches to form picots, which are used for practical construction as well as decorative effect.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lace</span> Openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work, made by machine or by hand

Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is divided into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace, although there are other types of lace, such as knitted or crocheted lace. Other laces such as these are considered as a category of their specific craft. Knitted lace, therefore, is an example of knitting. This article considers both needle lace and bobbin lace.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bobbin lace</span> Handmade lace

Bobbin lace is a lace textile made by braiding and twisting lengths of thread, which are wound on bobbins to manage them. As the work progresses, the weaving is held in place with pins set in a lace pillow, the placement of the pins usually determined by a pattern or pricking pinned on the pillow.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crocheted lace</span>

Crochet lace is an application of the art of crochet. Generally it uses finer threads and more decorative styles of stitching, often with flowing lines or scalloped edges to give interest. Variation of the size of the holes also gives a piece a "lacy" look.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Carrickmacross</span> Town in County Monaghan, Ireland

Carrickmacross is a town in County Monaghan, Ireland. The town and environs had a population of 5,032 according to the 2016 census, making it the second-largest town in the county. Carrickmacross is a market town which developed around a castle built by the Earl of Essex in 1630. The town won the European Entente Florale Silver Medal Award in 1998. The local Gaelic football and hurling club is Carrickmacross Emmets. The local soccer team is Carrick Rovers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tønder lace</span> Type of bobbin lace from Denmark

Tønder lace is a point-ground type of handmade bobbin lace identified with the Tønder region of Denmark since about 1850, although lace of many types has been made there since as early as 1650. The term is also used more broadly, to refer to any bobbin lace made in Denmark.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Point de Gaze</span>

Point de Gaze is a needle lace from Belgium named for the gauze-like appearance of the mesh ground. It was made from the early to mid 1800s to sometime bertween 1914 and the 1930s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Youghal lace</span>

Youghal lace is a needle lace inspired by Italian needle lace and developed in Youghal, County Cork, Ireland.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Limerick lace</span> Type of embroidered net lace

Limerick lace is a specific class of lace originating in Limerick, Ireland, which was later produced throughout the country. It evolved from the invention of a machine which made net in 1808. Until John Heathcoat invented a net-making machine in Devon in 1815, handmade net was a very expensive fabric. This meant cheap net became available to Irish lacemakers, particularly after 1823 when Heathcoat's patent expired.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Carrickmacross lace</span> Net lace originating in Ireland

Carrickmacross lace is a form of lace that may be described as decorated net. A three-layer 'sandwich' is made consisting of the pattern, covered with, first, machine-made net and then fine muslin, through which the pattern can be seen. A thick outlining thread is stitched down along the lines of the pattern, sewing net and fabric together. Loops of thread known as 'twirls' are also couched along the outer edge. The excess fabric is then cut away. Some of the net is then usually decorated further with needle-run stitches or small button-holed rings known as 'pops'. Occasionally bars of buttonhole stitches are worked over fabric and net before both are cut away.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Picot</span>

A picot is a loop of thread created for functional or ornamental purposes along the edge of lace or ribbon, or croché, knitted or tatted fabric. The loops vary in size according to their function and artistic intention.

The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mountmellick embroidery</span> Floral whitework embroidery originating in Mountmellick, County Laois, Ireland

Mountmellick embroidery or Mountmellick work is a floral whitework embroidery originating in the town of Mountmellick in County Laois, Ireland, in the early nineteenth century.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kenmare lace</span>

Kenmare lace is a handmade needlepoint lace originally made in Kenmare, Ireland. In the 19th century, sisters of the Poor Clare convent, under the leadership of Mary O'Hagan introduced needlepoint lace to the women and girls of the locality. It was a response to the poverty that followed the Great Famine. The initiative was of immeasurable help to the people of the area in those difficult years.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lace machine</span> Powered equipment for producing imitations of hand-made lace

Lace machines took over the commercial manufacture of lace during the nineteenth century.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Maltese lace</span> Type of guipure bobbin lace from Malta

Maltese lace is a style of bobbin lace made in Malta. It is a guipure style of lace. It is worked as a continuous width on a tall, thin, upright lace pillow. Bigger pieces are made of two or more parts sewn together.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Irish crochet lace</span>

Irish crochet lace is a style of Irish lace which is generally considered allied to rather than a true lace. It was originally developed in mid-nineteenth century Ireland as a method of imitating expensive Venetian point laces.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ipswich lace</span> Bobbin lace from Ipswich, Massachusetts

Ipswich lace is a historical fashion accessory, the only known American hand-made bobbin lace to be commercially produced. Centered in the coastal town of Ipswich, Massachusetts north of Boston, a community of lacemaking arose in the 18th century. Puritan settlers to the area likely made and wore lace as early as 1634, because Sumptuary laws from the early colonial records indicate this activity. Earliest known records of the commercial production indicate that lace produced by local women was used to barter for goods in the 1760s, as denoted by ledger account books belonging to local merchants. These laces were sold in the region from Boston to Maine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Milanese bobbin lace</span> Style of historical bobbin lace developed in Milan

Milanese bobbin lace is a textile used as a fashion accessory or a decorative trim, first becoming popular in the 17th and 18th centuries in Milan. Lacemaking was an important economic activity in Northern Italy, besides touching on social status matters as well as being a culturally significant art form. The earliest versions of the lace consisted of the tape mostly filling the space. Typical characteristics of Milanese bobbin lace are scrolls made with curving clothwork tapes and floral motifs, and sometimes also consisting of human or animal figures. Sometimes needle lace techniques were combined with the bobbin lace pieces to create the final product.

References

  1. Sonnelitter, Karen (2016). Charity Movements in Eighteenth-Century Ireland: Philanthropy and Improvement. Woodbridge, Suffolk: Boydell & Brewer. p. 163. ISBN   9781783270682.
  2. Hooper, Glenn. Irish Lace. Design and Crafts Council Ireland. Archived from the original on 25 April 2016. Retrieved 5 December 2015 via The Heritage Council of Ireland.
  3. o’Cléirigh, Nellie (2003). Hardship and high Living.
  4. "An Irish Lace Review: A Beautiful Memory from a Challenging Time!". Irish Expressions. Retrieved 27 January 2023.
  5. Ballantyne, Barbra (2007). Early History of Irish Crochet Lace.
  6. Kenmare Literary and Historical Society; (1982) Kenmare Journal
  7. Levey, Santina M. (1983). Lace: a history. London: Victoria and Albert Museum. ISBN   090128615X. OCLC   10437512.
  8. Collier, Ann (1986). The art of lacemaking. Newton Abbot, Devon: David & Charles. ISBN   0715388460. OCLC   16832174.
  9. Potter, Matthew (2014). Amazing Lace: A History of the Limerick Lace Industry. Limerick City and County Council. ISBN   9780905700229.
  10. Dillmont, Thérèse (1986) [First published 1900]. Masterpieces of Irish Crochet Lace: Techniques, Patterns, Instructions. New York: Dover Publications. p. 3. ISBN   0486250792.
  11. Treanor, Máire (2010). Clones Lace: The Story and Patterns of an Irish Crochet.
  12. "Decorative Arts and History Museum, Dublin" . Retrieved May 18, 2018.
  13. "Home". Sheelin Lace. Retrieved 2018-05-18.
  14. "Craft Museum". www.mountmellickdevelopment.com. Retrieved 2018-05-18.
  15. "Carrickmacross Lace". www.carrickmacrosslace.ie. Retrieved 2018-05-18.
  16. "Kenmare Lace | An Irish Needlepoint Lace". www.kenmarelace.ie. Retrieved 2018-05-18.
  17. "Limerick City and County Museum". museum.limerick.ie. Retrieved 2018-05-18.