Pamela Ferrell

Last updated
Pamela Ferrell
Pamela L. Ferrell 2019.jpg
Ferrell in 2019
Born
Pamela L. Ferrell, 1959
EducationRobert Lewis Cosmetology School, 1983
Occupation(s)Entrepreneur, activist for natural hair
Known forPioneer, activist in Natural Hair Care Movement
SpouseTaalib-Din Uqdah
Website www.cornrowsandco.com

Pamela L. Ferrell is an American entrepreneur, pioneer and advocate in the natural haircare field. She is best known for the pivotal role she played in assisting the United States (U.S.) Army and Navy with their review of hairstyle policies and regulations. She is the first known and documented African-American to help shape hair policies within the United States Armed Forces. [1] [2]

Contents

Ferrell has been an advocate in the natural haircare field since the early 1980s. Over the course of 40 years, she has been an active voice for natural hair care causes and a key contributor in efforts to get states to change outdated laws that impose unfair policies and fines on hair braiding salons.

Early life

Ferrell speaks with reporters as she participated in the Marriott Hotel protest in 1996. Pamela Ferrell protests in 1996.jpg
Ferrell speaks with reporters as she participated in the Marriott Hotel protest in 1996.

Ferrell grew up in Providence, Rhode Island. She is the middle child of 3 siblings and the daughter of Herbert Ferrell and Vioris Maynard. Ferrell stated in an exclusive interview with the Washington Post newspaper on September 17, 2020, that she left Rhode Island because of the police brutality she experienced at the age of 15. [3] Days after graduating from Classical High School in 1977, Ferrell moved to Washington, DC, where she stayed with her uncle and attended the University of the District of Columbia to study Fashion and Business Marketing.

Ferrell met her husband, Uqdah in 1979 and they married in 1983. Shortly after this time, they opened a hair braiding business together. Ferrell is currently the owner of Cornrows and Company, with her husband, Taalib-Din Uqdah, located in Washington, DC. The company was established in 1980, with Ferrell and Uqdah signing a contract and putting a payment of $500 down, with a 4-year lease. A few years later the salon's popularity grew within the neighborhood and was accumulating close to $1.3 million a year. Uqdah, stated to a reporter in 1987, that their business was not driven by a desire to just make money but by the spirit of entrepreneurship and culture the company brought to the neighborhood.

The company's problems begun when the DC government started fining the company for operating without a cosmetology salon license. Soon after this, women responded to a “Wanted Poster” from Cornrows and Company stating they will pay the legal fees for women who were fired or were threaten with job lost because of their braided hairstyle.

The first person to respond to this poster was a woman by the name of Cheryl Tatum. Tatum worked for the Crystal City Hyatt Hotel located in Crystal City, Virginia. On her second confrontation with the hotel, Tatum refused to take out her braids and Cornrows & Co. paid the attorney fees to file for a discrimination lawsuit. As the issues surrounding this event grew, it caught the attention of Reverend Jesse Jackson during his run for the President of the United States in 1984. Jackson stated that he would pull out from using the Hyatt if the issue was not resolved. Sydney Boone, another woman suing the Hyatt Hotel (Washington, DC), met with a coalition of blacks to boycott the Hyatt the morning Jesse Jackson, his lawyers and Hyatt Hotel officials completed their meeting. As Jesse Jackson was walking outside of the hotel, Boone and the coalition started protesting. Other companies that did not allow braids during this time, such as American Airlines and the Marriot Hotel were also met with protests and lawsuits. Uqdah, the co-owner of Cornrows and Company stated that braids and different braid styles are engraved in the history and heritage of African-American culture. Ferrell's company supported customers by paying for attorney fees and organizing the protests that took place. [4]

Education

In 1979 Ferrell left the University of the District of Columbia to open a braiding business. In 1983, she attended the Robert Lewis Cosmetology School in Silver Spring, Maryland as part of an agreement made with the then, DC Mayor, Marion Barry, in order for the hair braiders in her salon to become exempt from attending a cosmetology school for hair braiding.

Career

On March 16, 1978, Ferrell was fired from her place of employment due to her braided hairstyle. On a podcast that aired July 17, 2017, under TEDTalks, Ferrell describes how she felt about being fired and how this motivated her to become an advocate for women who wore braids and natural hair in the workplace. [5]

For the last 40 years, Ferrell has been an entrepreneur, advocate for natural hair care, and an expert witness for hair braiding in legal cases. She developed the Circle Hair System which defined the different textures of hair. This system was used in the 2014 presentation to the U.S. Army and is now part of the Cornrows & Company collection in the National Museum of African-American History and Culture (NMAAHC). Ferrell stated she created the system as a method to explain the different textures in human hair.

Circle Hair Type System

The pictures below are the hair displays created by Ferrell in which she used in her 2014 presentation to the U.S. Army. The display is now part of the Cornrows & Company collection in the U.S. National Museum of African-American History and Culture (NMAAHC).

Activism and Pioneer

DC Mayor Sharon Pratt Kelly signed revised DC Barber Bill January 6, 1993. Pamela Ferrell in middle, and husband Uqdah, left, played instrumental roles in getting the Bill revised. Mayor Sharon Kelly signs Revised DC Barber Bill.png
DC Mayor Sharon Pratt Kelly signed revised DC Barber Bill January 6, 1993. Pamela Ferrell in middle, and husband Uqdah, left, played instrumental roles in getting the Bill revised.
Brantley wins her case against the State of Texas with the assistance of advocate Pamela Ferrell. (photo by the State of Texas) I.Bently 1997.jpg
Brantley wins her case against the State of Texas with the assistance of advocate Pamela Ferrell. (photo by the State of Texas)

1991

In 1991, Ferrell and her husband were entangled in a legal battle with the District of Columbia's Department of Consumer and Regulatory Affairs. DC fined the business for operating without a cosmetology license for braiding hair, despite the fact the cosmetology curricula did not include instructions on natural hair braiding. Ferrell and her husband eventually sued the DC government. As a result of this case, in 1992 the DC government exempted hair braiding from the 1938 Jim Crow-era cosmetology regulation. [6] The DC Department of Consumer and Regulatory Affairs amended wording in its regulation and created a separate license for braiders. [7] This led to Ferrell being appointed to the Washington DC Barber and Cosmetology board as the Specialty Braider. Ferrell stated that this case was the catalyst that gave her a voice to start advocating on unreasonable state licensing requirements for natural hair braiders. [8]

1993

In 1993, Ferrell served as an expert representative to assist the United States Navy, Uniform Board with its decisions in hair policies concerning different textured hair. In 1996 the Navy changed its hair regulations to include the wearing of braids.

1996

Ferrell and her husband were instrumental in getting the State of Maryland to exempt hair braiders from the cosmetology regulation. [9]

1997

Ferrell served as the expert witness in order to assist Isis Brantley in her fight with the State of Texas concerning braiding licenses. Ferrell stated that the victory was not about hair braiding but more about protecting the 14th Amendment right to economic liberty. [10] [11]

2014

In 2014, Roy Wallace, assistant deputy chief of staff G-1, thanks and recognizes Pamela Ferrell for her work assisting the Army's review of hairstyle policies. (photo by U.S. Army) Ferrell army 2014.png
In 2014, Roy Wallace, assistant deputy chief of staff G-1, thanks and recognizes Pamela Ferrell for her work assisting the Army's review of hairstyle policies. (photo by U.S. Army)

In 2014, Ferrell played a key role in providing information and samples to the U.S. Army on different hair types and the negative results that can come from policies restricting natural hairstyles made by authorities with no actual knowledge or familiarity with hair. In the picture to the right, Roy Wallace, assistant deputy chief of staff G-1, gives thanks to Pamela Ferrell for assisting in the Army's review of hairstyle policies. [12]

2019

Ferrell speaks with reporters after giving testimony during the Crown Act amendment in Rockville, Maryland, 2019. Ferrell 2019 crownMtg.jpg
Ferrell speaks with reporters after giving testimony during the Crown Act amendment in Rockville, Maryland, 2019.

The CROWN Act [13] - - On September 24, 2019, Councilmember, Will Jawando, and Council President, Nancy Navarro introduced to Montgomery County Councilmembers in Rockville, Maryland, the Amendment to Bill 30–19. Ferrell was invited to give testimony on the Bill by a customer who was a Montgomery County resident. Many other individuals, along with the Alpha Kappa Alpha sorority, Theta Omega Omega chapter, presented testimonies of discrimination in the workplace and school events due to their natural hairstyles. Ferrell supported the Bill however with amended recommended changes. [14] [15]

Prior to the hearing on October 15, Ferrell gave testimony and expert witness accounts to why Bill 30-19 should be modified to include language “Protected” rather than “Protective” hairstyles. Ferrell recommended the language be consistent with the Protected class under the employment discrimination law. In Ferrell's testimony, she defined protected hairstyles as an ambiguous term. The hearing for the recommended changes took place on October 19, 2019. Despite opposition on part of some council members, the CROWN Act, Bill 30–19, was revised on October 28, 2019, to include language that prohibited discrimination based on certain natural hairstyles. The updated Bill was signed November 7, 2019, in the Maryland Senate and was effective on February 6, 2020.

Other states supported

Ferrell served as an expert witness on the following cases and states:

CASE/STATEYEARSOURCE
JoAnne Cornwell (Sisterlocks), et al. vs. California1997 http://braidingfreedom.com/braiding-initiative/supporters/dr-joanne-cornwell/, https://law.justia.com/cases/federal/district-courts/FSupp/962/1260/2311323/
Melony Armstrong, Margaret Burden & Christina Griffin vs Mississippi2005 https://ij.org/case/armstrong-v-lunsford/
Jestina Clayton vs. Utah2012 https://www.ksl.com/article/21638994/court-sides-with-woman-in-hair-braiding-case
Ndloba Niang and Tameka Stigers vs. Missouri2015 https://court.rchp.com/african-hair-braiders-win-u-s-supreme-court-voids-ruling/

Within these states, the cosmetology regulation was changed to exempt hair braiders from the cosmetology act. [16] [17]

Media

Smithsonian Museum Display Release: Book by Pamela Ferrell on display at the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington, DC (photo by Andre Richardson) Natural Hair Care and Beauty NMAAHC Book Display.png
Smithsonian Museum Display Release: Book by Pamela Ferrell on display at the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington, DC (photo by Andre Richardson)

Newspapers, magazine articles

Ferrell's company began advocating for woman's rights to wear braided hairstyles in the early 1980s. As more women embraced African-inspired hairstyles, hair braiders opened businesses around the country to offer this service. State regulatory agencies threaten these businesses with closure because they did not have a barber or cosmetology license. Ferrell's company became the first client of the Institute for Justice National Law Firm that set out to change state laws to protect hair braiders' 14th amendment rights to earn an honest living without overburdensome government regulations. [18] From the 1990s and forward, Ferrell continues to advocate that Hair Braiding businesses are exempt from state barber and cosmetology Acts.

In the articles below, Ferrell voiced her concerns about the politics and versatility of black hair. Within some articles, she was asked to discuss current issues that involved natural hair care and styles:

Films supported

Hairstylist Pamela Ferrell (left) on set with Daughters of the Dust actors. Pamela Ferrell on set Film Daughters of the Dust in 1989.png
Hairstylist Pamela Ferrell (left) on set with Daughters of the Dust actors.

In the early 1990s, Ferrell was solicited by entertaining artist Diana Ross and TV filmmaker, Julie Dash for support in several television and film productions. In both productions, Ferrell was the key make-up artist and hair designer. She worked closely with both Ross and Dash to provide the creative details needed for the vision and style of each scene. Ferrell also worked with the actors on set, detailing the make-up for each scene.

Publications

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hairstyle</span> Style of hair, usually on the human scalp

A hairstyle, hairdo, haircut or coiffure refers to the styling of hair, usually on the human head but sometimes on the face or body. The fashioning of hair can be considered an aspect of personal grooming, fashion, and cosmetics, although practical, cultural, and popular considerations also influence some hairstyles.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dreadlocks</span> Rope-like braiding hairstyle

Dreadlocks, also known as dreads or locs, are a hairstyle made of rope-like strands of hair. This is done by not combing the hair and allowing the hair to mat naturally or by twisting it manually. Over time the hair will form tight braids or ringlets.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Braid</span> Structure of strands of flexible material

A braid is a complex structure or pattern formed by interlacing three or more strands of flexible material such as textile yarns, wire, or hair. The simplest and most common version is a flat, solid, three-stranded structure. More complex patterns can be constructed from an arbitrary number of strands to create a wider range of structures. The structure is usually long and narrow with each component strand functionally equivalent in zigzagging forward through the overlapping mass of the others. It can be compared with the process of weaving, which usually involves two separate perpendicular groups of strands.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cosmetology</span> Study and application of beauty treatment

Cosmetology is the study and application of beauty treatment. Branches of specialty include hairstyling, skin care, cosmetics, manicures/pedicures, non-permanent hair removal such as waxing and sugaring, and permanent hair removal processes such as electrology and intense pulsed light (IPL).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Afro</span> Hair style

The afro is a hair style created by combing out natural growth of afro-textured hair, or specifically styled with chemical curling products by individuals with naturally curly or straight hair. The hairstyle can be created by combing the hair away from the scalp, dispersing a distinctive curl pattern, and forming the hair into a rounded shape, much like a cloud or puff ball.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cornrows</span> Style of hair braiding

Cornrows are a style of traditionally three-strand braids, originating in Africa, in which the hair is braided very close to the scalp, using an underhand, upward motion to make a continuous, raised row. Cornrows are often done in simple, straight lines, as the term implies, but they can also be styled in elaborate geometric or curvilinear designs. They are distinct from, but may resemble, box braids, Dutch braids, melon coiffures, and other forms of plaited hair, and are typically tighter than braids used in other cultures.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Marjorie Joyner</span> American businesswoman, activist and philanthropist and entrepreneur

Marjorie Joyner was an American businesswoman, hair care entrepreneur, philanthropist, educator, and activist. Joyner is noted for being the first African-American woman to create and patent a permanent hair-wave machine. In addition to her career in hair care, Joyner was highly visible in the African-American community in Chicago, once serving as head of the Chicago Defender Charity network, helping organize the Bud Billiken Day Parade and fundraiser for various schools.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kinky hair</span> Human hair texture indigenous to sub-Saharan Africa, Melanesia, and Australia

Kinky hair, also known as afro-textured hair, is a human hair texture prevalent in the indigenous populations of many regions with hot climates, mainly sub-Saharan Africa, and some areas of Melanesia, and Australia. Each strand of this hair type grows in a repeating pattern of small contiguous kinks. These numerous kinks make kinky hair appear denser than straight, wavy, and curly hair types.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Madam C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company</span> Cosmetics manufacturer

The Madam C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company was a cosmetics manufacturer incorporated in Indianapolis, Indiana in 1910 by Madam C. J. Walker. It was best known for its African-American cosmetics and hair care products, and considered the most widely known and financially successful African-American-owned business of the early twentieth century. The Walker Company ceased operations in July 1981.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">African-American hair</span> Afro-textured hair types

African-American hair or Black hair refers to hair types, textures, and styles that are linked to African-American culture, often drawing inspiration from African hair culture. It plays a major role in the identity and politics of Black culture in the United States and across the diaspora. African-American hair often has a kinky hairy texture, appearing tightly coiled and packed. Black hair has a complex history, culture, and cultural impact, including its relationship with racism.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hair twists</span> Hairstyle

Hair twists, flat twists, or mini-twists, are a hairstyle popular with Afro-textured hair around the world, and sometimes with other hair textures. The style is achieved by dividing the hairs into several sections, twisting strands of hair, then twisting two twisted strands around one another. They can also be created with one strand of hair at a time, with a comb. They are not to be confused with larger, longer dreadlocks,.

Discrimination based on hair texture, also known as textureism, is a form of social injustice, where afro-textured hair or coarse hair types, and their associated hair styles, are viewed negatively, often perceived as "unprofessional", "unattractive", or "unclean". This view can lead, for example, to some school students being excluded from class.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crochet braids</span>

Crochet braids, also known as latch hook braids, are techniques for braiding hair that involve crocheting synthetic hair extensions to a person's natural hair with a latch hook or crochet hook. While crochet braids are a hybrid of traditional braids, they're considered to be more similar to weaves. This method is associated with African hair styles. Known as a protective style, the technique can assist with hair growth if cared for properly. Crochet braids can be worn straight, curly, twisted, or braided.

The natural hair movement is a movement which aims to encourage people of African descent to embrace their natural, afro-textured hair; especially in the workplace. It originated in the United States during the 1960s, and resurged in popularity in the 2000s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Box braids</span> Hair braids which are characterized by "boxy" or square-shaped hair divisions

Box braids are a type of hair-braiding style that is predominantly popular among African people and the African diaspora. This type of hairstyle is a "protective style" and is "boxy", consisting of square-shaped hair divisions. Box braids are generally installed by using synthetic hair which helps to add thickness as well as helping the natural hair that is in the braid. Because they are not attached to the scalp like other similar styles such as cornrows, box braids can be styled in a number of different ways. The installation process of box braids can be lengthy, but once installed they can last for six to eight weeks. They are known for being easy to maintain.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Braid (hairstyle)</span> Hairstyle formed by interlacing 3 or more strands

Braids are a complex hairstyle formed by interlacing three or more strands of hair. Braiding has been used to style and ornament human and animal hair for thousands of years in various cultures around the world.

In the United States, discrimination based on hair texture is a form of social injustice that has been predominantly experienced by African Americans and predates the founding of the country.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Protective hairstyle</span> Hairstyle that tucks the hair away and keeps it free from manipulation

A protective hairstyle is a term predominantly used to describe hairstyles suitable for Afro-textured hair. These hairstyles are designed to minimize manipulation and exposure of the hair to environmental elements. Factors such as extreme temperatures, humidity, and precipitation can adversely affect hair health. Protective hairstyles are beneficial in mitigating these effects by keeping the hair tucked away and reducing its exposure to potentially damaging conditions.

<i>Rogers v. American Airlines</i> (1981)

Rogers v. American Airlines was a 1981 legal case decided by the United States District Court for the Southern District of New York involving plaintiff Renee Rogers, a Black woman who brought charges against her employer, American Airlines, for both sex and race discrimination after she was dissuaded from wearing her hair in cornrows due to the airline's employee grooming policy. Rogers believed that this hair policy was a violation of her Title VII rights.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">CROWN Act of 2022</span> 2022 Act of US Congress prohibiting hair discrimination

The Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair Act of 2022 was a bill in the United States Congress intended to prohibit discrimination based on an individual's hair texture or hairstyle by classifying such discrimination illegal under federal law. It applied to federally assisted programs, housing programs, public accommodations, and employment. The act was introduced in the House of Representatives by Congresswoman Bonnie Watson Coleman (D-NJ) on March 19, 2021. Senator Cory Booker (D-NJ) introduced a companion bill in the Senate on March 22, 2021. The CROWN Act of 2022 marked the second time the legislation was introduced in Congress.

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