Gusset

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Late medieval shirt with gussets in the seams at shoulder, underarm, and hem. From a copy of the Tacuinum Sanitatis, 14th century. 3-piantagione Taccuino Sanitatis Casanatense 4182 shirt..jpg
Late medieval shirt with gussets in the seams at shoulder, underarm, and hem. From a copy of the Tacuinum Sanitatis , 14th century.

In sewing, a gusset is a triangular or rhomboidal piece of fabric inserted into a seam to add breadth or reduce stress from tight-fitting clothing. [1] Gussets were used at the shoulders, underarms, and hems of traditional shirts and chemises made of rectangular lengths of linen to shape the garments to the body. [2] [3]

Gussets are used in manufacturing of modern tights and pantyhose to add breadth at the crotch seam. As with other synthetic underwear, [4] these gussets are often made of moisture-wicking breathable fabrics such as cotton, to keep the genital area dry and ventilated. [5] [6] [7]

Gussets are also used when making three-piece bags, for example in a pattern [8] for a bag as a long, wide piece which connects the front piece and back piece. By becoming the sides and bottom of the bag, the gusset opens the bag up beyond what simply attaching the front to the back would do. With reference to the dimension of the gusset, the measurements of a flat bottom bag may be quoted as L×W×G. [9] Pillows too, are often gusseted, generally an inch or two. The side panels thicken the pillow, allowing more stuffing without bulging.

The meaning of gusset has expanded beyond fabric, broadly to denote an added patch of joining material that provides structural support. For example, metal gussets are used in bicycle frames to add strength and rigidity. Gussets may be used in retort pouches and other forms of packaging to allow the package to stand. Gusset plates, usually triangular, are often used to join metal plates and can be seen in many metal framed constructions. Expanding folders or accordion folders also employ gussets to allow for expansion when containing more than just a few sheets of paper. The gusset is also charge in heraldry, as is the gyron (an Old French word for gusset).

See also

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A sewing machine is a machine used to sew fabric and materials together with thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies. Since the invention of the first sewing machine, generally considered to have been the work of Englishman Thomas Saint in 1790, the sewing machine has greatly improved the efficiency and productivity of the clothing industry.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Quilt</span> Bedcover made of multiple layers of fabric sewn together, usually stitched in decorative patterns

A quilt is a multi-layered textile, traditionally composed of two or more layers of fabric or fiber. Commonly three layers are used with a filler material. These layers traditionally include a woven cloth top, a layer of batting or wadding, and a woven back combined using the techniques of quilting. This is the process of sewing on the face of the fabric, and not just the edges, to combine the three layers together to reinforce the material. Stitching patterns can be a decorative element. A single piece of fabric can be used for the top of a quilt, but in many cases the top is created from smaller fabric pieces joined, or patchwork. The pattern and color of these pieces creates the design.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Appliqué</span> Piece of textile ornament, or work created by applying such ornaments to a ground fabric

Appliqué is ornamental needlework in which pieces or patches of fabric in different shapes and patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern. It is commonly used as decoration, especially on garments. The technique is accomplished either by hand stitching or machine. Appliqué is commonly practised with textiles, but the term may be applied to similar techniques used on different materials. In the context of ceramics, for example, an appliqué is a separate piece of clay added to the primary work, generally for the purpose of decoration.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sewing</span> Craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with a needle and thread

Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with a sewing needle and thread. Sewing is one of the oldest of the textile arts, arising in the Paleolithic era. Before the invention of spinning yarn or weaving fabric, archaeologists believe Stone Age people across Europe and Asia sewed fur and leather clothing using bone, antler or ivory sewing-needles and "thread" made of various animal body parts including sinew, catgut, and veins.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Zipper</span> Device for binding the edges of an opening of fabric or other flexible material

A zipper, zip, fly, or zip fastener, formerly known as a clasp locker, is a commonly used device for binding together two edges of fabric or other flexible material. Used in clothing, luggage and other bags, camping gear, and many other items, zippers come in a wide range of sizes, shapes, and colors. In 1892, Whitcomb L. Judson, an American inventor from Chicago, patented the original design from which the modern device evolved.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Overlock</span> Multi-thread stitch produced in a single production step with an overlock sewing machine

An overlock is a kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming, or seaming. Usually an overlock sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed through, though some are made without cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters allows overlock machines to create finished seams easily and quickly. An overlock sewing machine differs from a lockstitch sewing machine in that it uses loopers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin. Loopers serve to create thread loops that pass from the needle thread to the edges of the fabric so that the edges of the fabric are contained within the seam.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pattern (sewing)</span> Template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out

In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto woven or knitted fabrics before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper, and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use. The process of making or cutting patterns is sometimes compounded to the one-word Patternmaking, but it can also be written pattern(-)making or pattern cutting.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tack (sewing)</span>

In sewing, to tack or baste is to sew quick, temporary stitches that will later be removed. Tacking is used for a variety of reasons, such as holding a seam in place until it is sewn properly, or transferring pattern markings onto the garment. Tacking is typically sewn using a specialised tacking thread, which may snap easily in order for it to be easily removed from the garment when necessary.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pleat</span> Deliberate fold in the design of a textile object or garment

A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gather (sewing)</span>

Gathering turns the edge of a piece of fabric into a bunch of small folds that are held together by a thread close to the edge. Gathering makes the fabric shorter where it is stitched. The whole of the fabric flares out into irregular, rolling folds beyond the gathered stitching. Gathering can be done by hand, with a machine, automatically, with elastic, or through channels.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Embroidered patch</span>

An embroidered patch, also known as a cloth badge, is a piece of embroidery which is created by using a fabric backing and thread. The art of making embroidered patches is an old tradition and was done by hand. During the first half of the twentieth century they were commonly embroidered using a shiffli embroidery machine. High-speed, computerized machines have led to mass production.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Vertical form fill sealing machine</span>

A vertical form fill sealing machine is a type of automated assembly-line product packaging system, commonly used in the packaging industry for food, and a wide variety of other products. Walter Zwoyer, the inventor of the technology, patented his idea for the VFFS machine in 1936 while working with the Henry Heide Candy Company. The machine constructs plastic bags and stand-up pouches out of a flat roll of film, while simultaneously filling the bags with product and sealing the filled bags. Both solids and liquids can be bagged using this packaging system.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Godet (sewing)</span> Circular sector of fabric set into a garment

A godet is an extra piece of fabric in the shape of a circular sector which is set into a garment, usually a dress or skirt. The addition of a godet causes the article of clothing in question to flare, thus adding width and volume. The most popular use of godets is in petticoats. Adding a godet to a piece of clothing also gives the wearer a wider range of motion.

Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with needle and thread. Sewing is one of the oldest of the textile arts, arising in the Paleolithic Era. Although usually associated with clothing and household linens, sewing is used in a variety of crafts and industries, including shoemaking, upholstery, sailmaking, bookbinding and the manufacturing of some kinds of sporting goods. Sewing is the fundamental process underlying a variety of textile arts and crafts, including embroidery, tapestry, quilting, appliqué and patchwork.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Seam (sewing)</span> Sewn join between two pieces of textile material

In sewing, a seam is the join where two or more layers of fabric, leather, or other materials are held together with stitches. Prior to the invention of the sewing machine, all sewing was done by hand. Seams in modern mass-produced household textiles, sporting goods, and ready-to-wear clothing are sewn by computerized machines, while home shoemaking, dressmaking, quilting, crafts, haute couture and tailoring may use a combination of hand and machine sewing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lining (sewing)</span> Inner layer of fabric, fur, or other material

In sewing and tailoring, a lining is an inner layer of fabric, fur, or other material inserted into clothing, hats, luggage, curtains, handbags and similar items.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Facing (sewing)</span>

In sewing and tailoring, facing is a small piece of fabric, separate or a part of the garment fabric itself, used to finish the fabric edges. This is distinguished from hemming which simply folds the edge over; facing is a more substantial layer of additional fabric added to the edges of the garment. The facing adds addition support, strength and prevents stretching. Facing makes a garment look professionally finished with the seams well hidden inside the folds of the facing. Facing is mostly used to finish the edges in necklines, armholes, hems and openings. They are also used widely in all other sewing like quilts and home decor items like curtain hems.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gore (fabrics)</span>

In clothing and similar applications, a gore is a triangular or trapezoidal piece of a textile as might be used in shaping a garment to fit contours of the body.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gusset (heraldry)</span>

The gusset is a heraldic charge resembling the union of a pile with a pale extending from chief to base. For an ‘inverted’ gusset, one issuing from base and extending to the chief, some authors prefer the term graft. Other heraldic traditions conceive of the gusset not as this central charge but as a "line of truncation of the field", a flank-like charge similar to the gore or flaunch. A pair of gussets defined this way produce said central form as negative space between them upon the field. Heraldic writers in these traditions describe the gusset as 'line of truncation of the field' as “a traverse line” extending diagonally from the dexter or sinister point of the chief across one-third of the field, then descending in a straight line orthogonal to the base.

References

  1. Colton, Virginia, ed. (1976). Complete Guide to Modern Sewing. Reader's Digest. ISBN   0-89577-026-1.
  2. Burnham, Dorothy, Cut My Cote, Royal Ontario Museum, 1973.
  3. Sturm, Mary Mark (1973). Guide to modern clothing (3rd ed.). Webster Division, McGraw-Hill. ISBN   0070622930.
  4. US 2826760,Ernest G. Rice,"Combination Stockings and Panty",issued 1958-03-18
  5. "U.S. National Library of Medicine - Vaginal discharge" . Retrieved 2013-08-12.
  6. US 20030196252 , Sara Blakely, "Two-ply body-smoothing undergarment", issued 2003-10-23
  7. Prevention Magazine Editors: The Doctors Book of Home Remedies, Thousands of Tips and Techniques Anyone Can Use to Heal Everyday Health Problems. Bantam, USA 1991, ISBN   0553291564. P. 705, P. 707
  8. I taught myself to crochet. No. 7702. Freeport, Illinois: Boye Needle Company. 1975. OCLC   51565050.
  9. Ozepac Catalogue