Zero-waste fashion

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Zero-waste fashion refers to a fashion design strategy that generates little or no textile waste during the production process, particularly focusing on the pattern making and cutting stages. [1] [2] [3] [4] It is a reaction to the high amount of discarded clothing items going into landfill around the world. [5] [6] [7]

Contents

Zero-waste fashion strategies can be categorized under two general approaches: pre-consumer zero-waste fashion, which eliminates waste during manufacture, and post-consumer zero-waste fashion, which generates clothing from existing materials such as second-hand clothing [8] and elements or textiles made from other discarded consumer products. Historically, zero-waste designs have been utilised in folk clothing, including the kimono, sari, and chiton, among others. [9]

Pre-consumer zero-waste fashion

Pre-consumer waste is created primarily by the fashion industry during the fibre, yarn, fabric, and garment manufacturing processes and includes unsuitable fibres, remnants, trimmings, cutoffs, and scraps of unsuitable quality. This waste consists of fibres, chemicals, dyes, and finishes that are ideal for recycling. Secondary pre-consumer waste consists of unsold finished stock of garments and other fabric items like curtains and bedding. [10]

Zero-waste pattern design

In zero-waste pattern design, the designer creates a garment through the pattern-cutting process, working only within the space allotted by the fabric width. [2] This approach directly influences the design of the final garment, as the pattern-cutting process is a primary design step. Alternatively, zero-waste manufacturing is an approach that aims to eliminate textile waste without modifying garment patterns. This approach allows garments and fabric to be fully used with no fabric wasted. [11]

Gradable zero-waste apparel design

The Carrico Zero-waste Banded Grading technique is one proposed solution that utilizes bands to cut patterns without wasting textiles. In this technique, carefully planned seam placements grow or shrink, allowing sizing of the clothing item up or down to create three different sizes of a garment. After conducting the study, they found that the technique was successful at creating one-piece or two-piece items. Some issues with this practice include the proportion of the differently sized garments and inconsistencies in seam allowances. [12]

Differences from standard fashion production

A standard garment production process may begin with a drawing of the desired garment. A pattern is then generated to achieve this design, a marker is made to most efficiently use the fabric, and the pattern pieces are then cut from the cloth, sewn, packed, and distributed to retailers. Standard garment production generates an average of 15% textile waste. [13] [14]

Slow Fashion

Fast fashion is a system of seasons and microseasons created by at the retail stage, where certain clothes, designs and materials are advertised as being desirable for a short amount of time, at the end of which consumers are encouraged to abandon these and move on to buy other, more suitable clothes. [15] [16]

Slow fashion is seen as an antidote to this, and part of the larger slow movement culture, advocating for thoughtful manufacturing which is respectful of people, animals and the environment. [17] Slow fashion encourages consumers to look at purchasing timeless garments and styles, believing that such items can last for years, rather than weeks, as well as only buying items which are needed. [18] This reduction in demand can also lead to a reduction in transport costs, both financial and environmental.

Post-consumer zero-waste fashion

An example of post-consumer zero-waste fashion, this 'Storybook gown' is constructed of recycled and discarded children's books. The Golden Book Gown by Ryan Jude Novelline.jpg
An example of post-consumer zero-waste fashion, this 'Storybook gown' is constructed of recycled and discarded children's books.
Fashion and Wellness shows a "Model showcasing a dress made out bulletin newspapers, this is an attempt towards clearing the environment and keeping it clean". This is from the theme "Health and wellness in Africa." Fashion and Wellness.jpg
Fashion and Wellness shows a "Model showcasing a dress made out bulletin newspapers, this is an attempt towards clearing the environment and keeping it clean". This is from the theme "Health and wellness in Africa."

Post-consumer zero-waste fashion can also include used and discarded garments. Unwanted clothing can be sold on through donations to charity shops [19] [20] or through online sales. [21] [22]

However, less than one third of discarded garments are resold as post-consumer recycled (PCR) clothing. In 2018 1.5 million tons of discarded clothing was sold by the EU to Asian and African countries, [23] competing with local garment producers in those countries. [24] Over two-thirds of discarded garments that are not incinerated, are either torn and used as wiping rags, or stripped down to extract yarn or fibres [25] The fibres, post-consumer recycled (PCR) textiles, [26] remain in a closed loop where the recycling results in the manufacture of the same type of product: garments. [27]

In an open loop, other types of discarded consumer goods are recycled to create zero-waste fashion. One example is rPET bottles, which are processed to extract polyester fibre used in the production of garments. [28] [27] Other examples of recycled consumer products not related to fashion that are used to create zero-waste fashion are old books, newspapers, plastics, and shopping bags.

Waste elimination hierarchy

The waste hierarchy consists of the three 'R's' - Reduce, Reuse, Recycle - in order of impact. Zero-waste fashion design reduces or even eliminates pre-consumer textile waste. However, it does not necessarily address waste created during the use life and disposal phase of the garment's life cycle.

During textile production, many pollutants are emitted into the environment. The textile and apparel industry are some of the most polluting, and both have a low recycling rate of about 15%. Zero-waste fashion design could significantly reduce gaseous emissions during the production process and help to reuse material waste. [29]

Limitations

While zero-waste fashion design methods offer sustainability benefits, they also face limitations. Variations in aesthetic appearances between sizes, increased production time, and challenges in documentation are some of the notable concerns. Informing customers about size variations, exploring ways to lower costs, and improving documentation practices can address these limitations. Continued research and innovation are important to overcome these limitations and advance sustainability practices in the fashion industry. [30]

Notable contributions

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clothing</span> Objects worn to cover a portion of the body

Clothing is any item worn on the body. Typically, clothing is made of fabrics or textiles, but over time it has included garments made from animal skin and other thin sheets of materials and natural products found in the environment, put together. The wearing of clothing is mostly restricted to human beings and is a feature of all human societies. The amount and type of clothing worn depends on gender, body type, social factors, and geographic considerations. Garments cover the body, footwear covers the feet, gloves cover the hands, while hats and headgear cover the head, and underwear covers the private parts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile</span> Various fiber-based materials

Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not the only manufacturing method, and many other methods were later developed to form textile structures based on their intended use. Knitting and non-woven are other popular types of fabric manufacturing. In the contemporary world, textiles satisfy the material needs for versatile applications, from simple daily clothing to bulletproof jackets, spacesuits, and doctor's gowns.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Vintage clothing</span> Garments originating from a previous era

Vintage clothing is a generic term for garments originating from a previous era, as recent as the 1990s. The term can also be applied in reference to second-hand retail outlets, e.g. in vintage clothing store. While the concept originated during World War I as a response to textile shortages, vintage dressing encompasses choosing accessories, mixing vintage garments with new, as well as creating an ensemble of various styles and periods. Vintage clothes typically sell at low prices for high-end name brands.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile design</span> Creation of designs for the manufacturing of woven, knitted or printed fabrics

Textile design, also known as textile geometry, is the creative and technical process by which thread or yarn fibers are interlaced to form a piece of cloth or fabric, which is subsequently printed upon or otherwise adorned. Textile design is further broken down into three major disciplines: printed textile design, woven textile design, and mixed media textile design. Each uses different methods to produce a fabric for variable uses and markets. Textile design as an industry is involved in other disciplines such as fashion, interior design, and fine arts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fast fashion</span> Quick retail copying of catwalk trends

Fast fashion is the business model of replicating recent catwalk trends and high-fashion designs, mass-producing them at a low cost, and bringing them to retail quickly while demand is at its highest. The term fast fashion is also used generically to describe the products of this business model, particularly clothing and footwear. Retailers who employ the fast fashion strategy include Primark, H&M, Shein, and Zara, all of which have become large multinationals by driving high turnover of inexpensive seasonal and trendy clothing that appeals to fashion-conscious consumers.

The study of the history of clothing and textiles traces the development, use, and availability of clothing and textiles over human history. Clothing and textiles reflect the materials and technologies available in different civilizations at different times. The variety and distribution of clothing and textiles within a society reveal social customs and culture.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile recycling</span> Method of reusing or reprocessing used clothing, fibrous material and rags

Textile recycling is the process of recovering fiber, yarn, or fabric and reprocessing the material into new, useful products. Textile waste is split into pre-consumer and post-consumer waste and is sorted into five different categories derived from a pyramid model. Textiles can be either reused or mechanically/chemically recycled.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Upcycling</span> Recycling waste into products of higher quality

Upcycling, also known as creative reuse, is the process of transforming by-products, waste materials, useless, or unwanted products into new materials or products perceived to be of greater quality, such as artistic value or environmental value.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sustainable fashion</span> Reduction of environmental impacts of the fashion industry

Sustainable fashion is a term describing efforts within the fashion industry to reduce its environmental impacts, protect workers producing garments, and uphold animal welfare. Sustainability in fashion encompasses a wide range of factors, including cutting CO2 emissions, addressing overproduction, reducing pollution and waste, supporting biodiversity, and ensuring that garment workers are paid a fair wage and have safe working conditions.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clothing technology</span> Technology involving the manufacturing and innovation of clothing materials

Clothing technology describes advances in production methods, material developments, and the incorporation of smart technologies into textiles and clothes. The clothing industry has expanded throughout time, reflecting advances not just in apparel manufacturing and distribution, but also in textile functionality and environmental effect. The timeline of clothing and textiles technology includes major changes in the manufacture and distribution of clothing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Micro-sustainability</span> Individual or small scale sustainability efforts

Micro-sustainability is the portion of sustainability centered around small scale environmental measures that ultimately affect the environment through a larger cumulative impact. Micro-sustainability centers on individual efforts, behavior modification, education and creating attitudinal changes, which result in an environmentally conscious individual. Micro-sustainability encourages sustainable changes through "change agents"—individuals who foster positive environmental action locally and inside their sphere of influence. Examples of micro-sustainability include recycling, power saving by turning off unused lights, programming thermostats for efficient use of energy, reducing water usage, changing commuting habits to use less fossil fuels or modifying buying habits to reduce consumption and waste. The emphasis of micro-sustainability is on an individual's actions, rather than organizational or institutional practices at the systemic level. These small local level actions have immediate community benefits if undertaken on a widespread scale and if imitated, they can have a cumulative broad impact.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cotton recycling</span>

Cotton recycling is the process of converting cotton fabric into fibers that can be reused into other textile products.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clothing industry</span> Industry encompassing the design, manufacturing, wholesaling and retailing of clothes

Clothing industry or garment industry summarizes the types of trade and industry along the production and value chain of clothing and garments, starting with the textile industry, embellishment using embroidery, via the fashion industry to apparel retailers up to trade with second-hand clothes and textile recycling. The producing sectors build upon a wealth of clothing technology some of which, like the loom, the cotton gin, and the sewing machine heralded industrialization not only of the previous textile manufacturing practices. Clothing industries are also known as allied industries, fashion industries, garment industries, or soft goods industries.

Natalie "Alabama" Chanin is an American fashion designer from Florence, Alabama. From 1976 until its closure in 2005, Tee-Jays Manufacturing was one of the largest employers in the Florence textile industry. Chanin's business now operates as a clothing manufacturer on the grounds of the former Tee-Jays company and is now a part of the zero-waste fashion movement. Her design company uses organic cotton fabric in their designs. Chanin's "open source" philosophy means that patterns and techniques for some of her garments are openly available through books and workshops.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Slow fashion</span> Fashion concept

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel</span>

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Environmental impact of fashion</span>

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Recover Textile Systems, mainly known as Recover™, is a materials science company and producer of mechanically recycled cotton fiber and recycled cotton fiber blends, created in 2020 with its headquarters in Banyeres de Mariola, Spain.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Environmental sustainability of vintage fashion</span>

Vintage clothing, or "Vintage", is a colloquialism commonly used to refer to all old styles of clothing. A widely accepted industry standard is that items made between 20 and 100 years ago can be considered "vintage" if they clearly reflect the styles and trends of the era they represent. In recent years, the popularity of vintage clothing has grown, as consumers seek unique and sustainable fashion options.

References

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  15. ↑ Sustainable Jungle website, Zero Waste Fashion Brands, article by Jenny Bell, October 13, 2023
  16. ↑ Good On You website, What is Slow Fashion?, article by Madeleine Hill dated July 3, 2023
  17. ↑ Sustainable Jungle website, What is Slow Fashion?
  18. ↑ Oxfam website, What is Slow Fashion?
  19. ↑ Zero Waste Week website, How a charity shop can save more waste from landfill than you might imagine
  20. ↑ Brighton and Hove City Council website, Discover how you can reduce textile waste for Second Hand September, article dated September 8, 2023
  21. ↑ BBC website, Vinted makes first profit on used fashion, article by Lucy Hooker dated April 29, 2024
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  27. 1 2 Palme, Anna (2016). Recycling of cotton textiles: Characterization, pretreatment, and purification. Sweden: Chalmers Tekniska Hogskola.
  28. ↑ Park, Sang Ho; Kim, Seong Hun (2014-07-01). "Poly (ethylene terephthalate) recycling for high value added textiles". Fashion and Textiles. 1 (1): 1. doi: 10.1186/s40691-014-0001-x . ISSN   2198-0802.
  29. ↑ Stanescu, Michaela (2021). "State of the art of post-consumer textile waste upcycling to reach the zero waste milestone". Environmental Science and Pollution Research International. 28 (12): 14253–14270. Bibcode:2021ESPR...2814253S. doi:10.1007/s11356-021-12416-9. PMID   33515405. S2CID   231746977.
  30. ↑ Carrico, Melanie; Dragoo, Sheri L.; McKinney, Ellen; Stannard, Casey; Moretz, Colleen; Rougeaux-Burnes, Ashley (2022-01-01). "An Inquiry into Gradable Zero-Waste Apparel Design". Sustainability. 14 (1): 452. doi: 10.3390/su14010452 . ISSN   2071-1050.
  31. ↑ Burnham, Dorothy K. (1973). Cut my Cote. Ontario: Royal Ontario Museum.
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