Florence Court

Last updated

Florence Court
Florence Court frontage.jpg
Florence Court in 2006
Coordinates 54°15′40″N7°43′38″W / 54.261004°N 7.727313°W / 54.261004; -7.727313
Architect Richard Cassels
OwnerNational Trust
Listed Building – Grade A
Designated6 November 1981
Reference no.HB12/09/002
United Kingdom Northern Ireland adm location map.svg
Red pog.svg
Location of Florence Court in Northern Ireland

Florence Court is a large 18th-century house and estate located 8 miles south-west of Enniskillen, County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland. It is set in the foothills of Cuilcagh Mountain. The nearby village is distinguished by the one-word name Florencecourt. It is owned and managed by the National Trust and is the sister property of nearby Castle Coole. The other National Trust property in County Fermanagh is the Crom Estate.

Contents

History

Florence Wrey (died 1718), daughter of Sir Bourchier Wrey, 4th Baronet (c. 1653-1696) by his wife Florence Rolle. She was the wife of John Cole of Enniskillen, builder of Florence Court, County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland. Her grandmother was one of the earliest English women to bear the name, Florence Rolle (1630-1705), the daughter and heiress of Denys Rolle (1614-1638), of Stevenstone and Bicton in Devon. Collection of National Trust, Florence Court FlorenceWrey MrsColeDied1718.jpg
Florence Wrey (died 1718), daughter of Sir Bourchier Wrey, 4th Baronet (c. 1653–1696) by his wife Florence Rolle. She was the wife of John Cole of Enniskillen, builder of Florence Court, County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland. Her grandmother was one of the earliest English women to bear the name, Florence Rolle (1630–1705), the daughter and heiress of Denys Rolle (1614–1638), of Stevenstone and Bicton in Devon. Collection of National Trust, Florence Court

The history of the building of Florence Court is subject to conjecture and the current house was built in at least two, if not three, phases. [1] The first house on the site was built by John Cole, Esq. (1680–1726) and named after his wife Florence Bourchier Wrey (died 1718). [2] She was the daughter of Sir Bourchier Wrey, 4th Baronet (c. 1653–1696) of Tawstock, Devon. An anonymous history of Fermanagh written in 1718 describes John Cole's house as being 'very costly and sumptuous' [3] but in 1739 Rev. William Henry described this building as being 'but small, being only the left wing of a grand building, designed by Mr Cole, which he did not live to execute'. [4]

The architects of the current house are unknown. [3] The central block was built first and various dates from 1730 to 1764 are proffered for its construction. It has been attributed to the German architect Richard Cassels (or Castle) who worked at nearby Castle Hulme in 1728-9 and Florence Court shares similarities with some of Cassels' other Irish houses. [3] An estate map of 1768 shows the central block, standing alone, as having a heavily framed oculus window (in place of the current pair of windows and large, squat niche) on the second floor. This was a recurring device in Cassels' work. [3] Were Cassels involved, dating the initial phase of building to 1730 may be plausible. On the other hand, Mr Henry's account nine years later does not mention there being a new house, lately built. Rowan suggests the plans could have been drawn up by Cassels, but not executed until a much later date, pointing to the 'old fashioned' style of the house; and reflects that 'the design, for all its charm, is far too gauche for [Cassels]'. [5]

The baroque plasterwork in the library and study at the front of the house appear to date from an earlier period to the rich rococo plasterwork in the dining room, drawing room and stair hall on the western side of the house, and the floorboards in these two rooms differ in width from those elsewhere in the house. It is conjectured that the central block may have been completed in two phases, with the rooms at the back of the house, along with the Venetian room, finished by 1764, when John Cole's son, Lord Mount Florence, held a famous housewarming party. [3]

The colonnades and pavilions were built c. 1771 and are attributed to the Italian engineer and architect Davis Ducart. [5] These are built of dressed sandstone as opposed to the rendered limestone rubble of the central block. The south and stable yards are by the mason Andrew Lambert. The Introduction to the Enniskillen Papers proposes there may have been an addition stage to completing the front we know today, pointing out that the heavily rusticated window dressings may have been 'an afterthought by another, less accomplished hand'. They do not feature on the facade shown on the 1768 estate map; the introduction suggests further work may have been 'a vain attempt to harmonise [the central block] with the sophisticated cut-stone of the links and pavilions'. [3]

Whether there was a final phase is a matter of conjecture. The 1979 National Trust guidebook points out the similarity between the unusual pedimented doorcase at Florence Court with the doorcase of the now ruinous Nixon Hall at nearby Gransha (built c. 1780). [6] Major improvements were made on the estate c. 1778–80. These included the landscaping of the park by William King and his laying out of the new drive, and the building of the Grand Gates.

Florence Court was the seat of the Earls of Enniskillen until 1973. The 5th Earl of Enniskillen transferred the house and fourteen acres surrounding it to the National Trust in 1953. In 1955 a devastating fire destroyed the upper floors of the house. Sir Albert Richardson was entrusted with leading the National Trust's restoration and extensive efforts have since returned Florence Court to much of its former glory. Some rooms on the upper floors, however, remain closed.[ citation needed ]

Description

The house features exquisite Rococo decoration and fine Irish furniture, many pieces of which were acquired for the property by the National Trust and others loaned from other Irish houses. The majority of the original furnishings were removed when the Cole family moved to Perthshire in 1973 but many were returned at the bequest of the Dowager Countess of Enniskillen on her death in 1998.

Gardens

Pleasure Garden

The expansive pleasure garden was landscaped in the mid-19th century, with panoramic views of Benaughlin and Cuilcagh mountains. It features Victorian specimen trees and displays of both temperate and semi-tropical plants, principally rhododendrons.[ citation needed ]

Summer House

Also known as the heather house. The present structure is a reconstruction of an 18th-century thatched summer house. It is located on a prominent spot at the top of the pleasure garden, with views of the garden and Benaughlin mountain.

The structure was rebuilt by the National Trust in the late-1980s to designs based on 19th-century photographs of the feature. The foundation and cobbled floor are the only parts of the 18th-century structure that remain. In 2015 the summer house was burnt to the ground by vandals. It was rebuilt in 2016, with a significant proportion of the funding for the project raised from the local community.

Florence Court Yew

The most notable tree on the estate is the Florence Court Yew. This specimen is survivor of the two original Irish Yew ( Taxus baccata 'fastigiata') saplings discovered in 1767 by local farmer George Willis on Cuilcagh mountain. As the Irish Yew can be propagated only from cuttings, this tree is the progenitor of almost all Irish Yews worldwide. [7]

The yew is located within the site of the John Cole's early 18th-century gardens, approximately one mile southeast of the house. These formerly extensive gardens are now largely lost with the exception of the surviving remains of the 18th-century rock garden, located opposite the yew. The rock garden formerly contained stone tables and chairs but is currently overgrown.[ citation needed ]

Walled Garden

The four acre walled garden was laid out in the 18th-century and extended in the 1870s by Charlotte, Countess of Enniskillen. It features a rose garden, two ponds, orchards of heirloom variety fruit trees and a working vegetable garden. The 1870s Rose Cottage on the western edge of the garden was formerly the head gardener's dwelling. It was restored from a derelict condition in the 1990s and is now let as a holiday cottage. In September 2017 a National Trust project to restore the garden to its 1930s condition was awarded a grant by the Heritage Lottery Fund. [8] The project includes plans to rebuild two long glass houses that formerly ran along the length of the north wall.

The tennis courts behind the north wall were replaced by Forestry Service offices in the 1970s.[ citation needed ]

Cane Cottage

An 18th-century cottage built from bamboo was formerly located west of the house. It served as a tea house but fell into disrepair during the second half of the 20th century and was demolished in the 1970s.[ citation needed ]

Lady Well

The Lady Well is a natural spring well located approximately three quarters of a mile east of the house at the bottom of the Broad Meadow.[ citation needed ]

Park

Landscape

The 18th-century landscaped park is framed by Benauglin and Cuilcagh mountains. It was laid out c. 1778–80 by William King for the 1st Earl. King's work included the present undulating main drive, replacing the earlier straight east avenue which ran from the centre of the main front of the house. The path of the original drive remains visible on aerial photographs.

The Larganess and Finglass rivers flow through the estate, most of which is occupied by pasture and forestry, principally Larch. The Glen Wood nature reserve is a semi-natural oak woodland conserved by the Forestry Service near to the old deer park on the southwest edge of the demesne.

Gate lodges

The Grand Gates date from c. 1778. They are flanked by a pair of symmetrical bay fronted lodges with hipped roofs facing the road and gables to the rear. Each comprises a single room. The current double sash windows were installed in the 1920s, replacing the original square Georgian glazing. The original chimney stacks have been demolished and the walls of the lodges, which were originally harled, are now rendered and painted. For many years the gates were painted red but are now black.

The south lodge is a picturesque one and a half story cottage built to replace an earlier lodge in the 1870s. The cottage is three bays wide with a front gabled porch, built from coursed rubble with dressed sandstone door and window surrounds. Quatrefoil bargeboards decorate the porch and side gables. The original sash windows have been replaced by simple modern glazing.

The Old Gate lodge at the end of the north avenue was built c. 1800. It was originally a single story three bay cottage, later extended to its present T plan.

Rural industry and engineering

Sawmill

A working water-powered sawmill stands on the edge of the pleasure garden. It includes an exhibition on the history of the building, the timber industry on the estate and the mid-1980s restoration of the building and machinery. The water wheel has the name 'William Maxwell circa 1848' at its centre although who Maxwell was is obscure. The machinery includes the original mid-19th century water-powered saw and two early-20th century electrical saws. Behind the mill is the millpond and the rebuilt millrace. The headrace runs off the Larganess river and is approximately one and a half miles long.

The main part of the building is built of limestone rubble and dates to the 18th century. It was extended and converted to a sawmill in the 1840s. A brick extension housing an office was added later in the 19th century. The building's original use is unknown although several long vertical apertures along each side of the building have the appearance of gun loops and may indicate the building had an earlier military function, possibly as a barracks.

Carpenter's workshop and cottage

In the vicinity of the sawmill are a restored carpenter's workshop and cottage. Items including wheels, furniture and coffins were made here for both the estate and the local area.[ citation needed ]

Hydraulic Ram

Near to the sawmill is a working Victorian hydraulic ram. It uses water pressure from the millpond to generate enough force to pump water uphill to the house. The hydraulic ram was replaced as the house's water supply following connection to mains water in the 1950s and now pumps into the millrace.[ citation needed ]

Eel house bridge

The Eel house is a single-arched 18th-century bridge crossing the Larganess river, located at the southwest corner of the pleasure garden. The bridge passes close to two small fords which slow the river at this point. Eel was formerly abundant in the Larganess and traps were set across the river here as it was an optimal place to catch them. The resulting catch was stored in the room behind the opening to the left of the arch.[ citation needed ]

Forge

Behind the cattle yard is a preserved 18th century forge still used occasionally for demonstrations.[ citation needed ]

Tilery

In the 1850s the 3rd Earl set up Florencecourt Tilery to provide local employment, utilising rich clay deposits in the vicinity of the Arney River. The works were located approximately two miles northeast of the estate and remained open until the deposits were worked out in the early 20th-century. The principal items manufactured were bricks, water pipes, roof tiles and hollow insulated floor tiles, similar to Roman hypocaust tiles. The floor tiles were commonly used in the kitchens of dwellings in surrounding areas, whilst the roof tiles appear to have been used only for outbuildings. The use of these materials is a distinctive feature of the vernacular architecture of southwest Fermanagh, otherwise rare and possibly unique in Irish vernacular architecture of the period.[ citation needed ]

The fire

The Hall at Florence Court, c. 1890s Chakram and Chintz.jpg
The Hall at Florence Court, c. 1890s

Early on the morning of 22 March 1955, a fire broke out on the first floor landing at Florence Court, adjacent to Lady Enniskillen's[ citation needed ] bedroom. Whilst fire brigades almost had control of the fire by 9am, dry weather conditions helped re-ignite the blaze. Flames reached the roof of the building which crashed down into the hall, so that by the evening around two-thirds of the Florence Court interior lay in ruins.

Lady Enniskillen, born Mary Cicely Nevill (daughter of Hugh Nevill), discovered the fire, which broke out during one of her husband's rare absences from home. After rushing downstairs to the servant's quarters to raise the alarm, she went to nearby Killymanamly House to telephone the elderly 5th Earl of Enniskillen (1876–1963),[ citation needed ] who was at the Ulster Club in Belfast, to tell him that the house was on fire. He is said to have cried "What the hell do you think I can do about it?".

Much of the damage to the interior of Florence Court was caused by the gallons of water pumped onto the flames. The dining room, with its exquisite plasterwork decoration, was saved only by the prompt action of local builders Bertie Pierce and Ned Vaughan who, on the instructions of Viola Grosvenor, later the Duchess of Westminster, drilled six holes in the flat part of the ceiling to allow the water which had accumulated on the floor above to quickly drain away and thereby preventing ceiling collapse. Two of these holes are still evident in the dining room today. [9]

Florence Court estate in early autumn; nestled in the foothills of Cuilcagh Mountain Florence Court Estate Autumn.jpg
Florence Court estate in early autumn; nestled in the foothills of Cuilcagh Mountain

The fire was only one of a series of events in the 1950s and 60s at Florence Court which marked the end of an era for the house and family. Following World War II falling agricultural prices, rising wage costs, death duties and a drastic reduction of the size of the demesne, the lifestyle of the 5th Earl of Enniskillen and his second wife Mary (née Nevill), was increasingly difficult to sustain. To secure the long-term future of the house, Lord Enniskillen gave Florence Court to the National Trust in 1953. It was opened to the public the following year.[ citation needed ]

In 1956, the 5th Lord Enniskillen's only son and heir Michael, Viscount Cole,[ citation needed ] died suddenly aged 36; he was unmarried. In 1961, as the restoration of the house was nearing completion, Hurricane Debbie devastated the estate. In 1963, the 5th Lord Enniskillen and his wife, Lady Enniskillen, died within three months of each other.

The 5th Earl, upon his death, was succeeded by his nephew, Captain David Lowry Cole, M.B.E. (1918–1989), in 1963, who became The Rt. Hon. The 6th Earl of Enniskillen. David Enniskillen (as he was popularly known) had spent much of his life in the Colony of Kenya, having been elected a member of the Legislative Council of Kenya in the early 1960s, just before independence. In 1955, he was divorced from his first wife Sonia (née Syers), stepdaughter of his uncle the 5th Earl (who died in 1963 with his wife, Sonia's mother). By her, he had issue: one son and one daughter.[ citation needed ]

David Enniskillen and his second wife, Nancy, Countess of Enniskillen (née Nancy MacLennan; formerly a diplomat with the United States Foreign Service), moved back to Florence Court, living there from 1964 until 1973. In that year, in the early years of The Troubles, the Earl and Countess of Enniskillen left Florence Court, moving over to Kinloch House in Kinloch, Perthshire, in Britain. David Enniskillen thus became the last Earl of Enniskillen to actually live in Florence Court. He was succeeded by his only son Andrew Cole, 7th Earl of Enniskillen, in 1989. Andrew Enniskillen continues to live on a vast estate in Kenya. [10]

Film and television

During the spring of 2012, the BBC filmed parts of Blandings , a television comedy, at Florence Court. Most of the series, however, was filmed at Crom Castle. The series was first broadcast on BBC 1 during January and February 2013.[ citation needed ]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">County Fermanagh</span> County in Northern Ireland

County Fermanagh is one of the thirty-two counties of Ireland, one of the nine counties of Ulster and one of six counties of Northern Ireland.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Enniskillen</span> Town in County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland

Enniskillen is the largest town in County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland. It is in the middle of the county, between the Upper and Lower sections of Lough Erne. It had a population of 14,086 at the 2011 Census. Enniskillen Castle was built in the 15th century as a stronghold of the Maguires, before coming under English control in the early 17th century. The castle and town were expanded during the Plantation of Ulster. It was the seat of local government for the former Fermanagh District Council, and is the county town of Fermanagh.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Earl of Enniskillen</span> Title in the peerage of Ireland

Earl of Enniskillen is a title in the Peerage of Ireland. It was created in 1789 for William Cole, 1st Viscount Enniskillen. He had already been created Viscount Enniskillen in the Peerage of Ireland in 1776 and had inherited the title Baron Mountflorence, of Florence Court in the County of Fermanagh, which had been created in the Peerage of Ireland in 1760 for his father John Cole, who had earlier represented Enniskillen in the Irish House of Commons. The family are descended from the Ulster planter, Sir William Cole.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Springhill House</span> House in County Londonderry, Northern Ireland

Springhill is a 17th-century plantation house in the townland of Ballindrum near Moneymore, County Londonderry in Northern Ireland. It has been the property of the National Trust since 1957 and, in addition to the house, gardens and park, there is a costume collection and a purported ghost. It is open from March to June, and September on weekends, and is open to the public seven days a week during July and August.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">John Cole, 1st Baron Mountflorence</span> Irish peer and politician

John Cole, 1st Baron Mountflorence was an Irish peer and politician.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">William Cole, 3rd Earl of Enniskillen</span> British politician

William Willoughby Cole, 3rd Earl of Enniskillen, styled by the courtesy title Viscount Cole until 1840, was an Irish palaeontologist and Conservative Member of Parliament. He also served as the first Imperial Grand Master of the Orange Order from 1866 until his death. He was Grand Master of the Grand Orange Lodge of Ireland from 1846 until his death.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Carton House</span> Large country house in Maynooth, Ireland

Carton House is a country house and surrounding demesne that was the ancestral seat of the Earls of Kildare and Dukes of Leinster for over 700 years. Located 23 km west of Dublin, in Maynooth, County Kildare, the Carton Demesne is a 1,100 acres estate, from an original estate of 70,000 acres. For two hundred years, the Carton Demesne was the finest example in Ireland of a Georgian-created parkland landscape. In the 2000s, much of the demesne was redeveloped into two golf courses and the house into a hotel complex.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Castle Coole</span> Historic mansion in Northern Ireland

Castle Coole is a townland and a late-18th-century neo-classical mansion situated in Enniskillen, County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland. Set in a 1,200-acre (490 ha) wooded estate, it is one of three properties owned and managed by the National Trust in County Fermanagh, the others being Florence Court and the Crom Estate.

The Crom Estate is a nature reserve located in the south of County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland, along the shores of Upper Lough Erne. It is one of three estates owned and managed by the National Trust in County Fermanagh, the others being Florence Court and Castle Coole mansions. The estate comprises 1,350 acres (5.5 km2), composed primarily of riparian forest. Some trees are so ancient that physical access is restricted.

Florencecourt is a small village in County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland. In the 2001 census it had a population of 135 people. It is situated within Fermanagh and Omagh district. Historically the area was called "Mullanashangan".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Blacklion</span> Village in County Cavan, Ireland

Blacklion is a border village in west County Cavan, Ireland. It is situated on the N16 national primary road, just across the border from the County Fermanagh village of Belcoo.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Donegal Castle</span> Restored castle in County Donegal, Ireland

Donegal Castle is a castle situated in the centre of Donegal Town in County Donegal in Ulster, the northern province in Ireland. The castle was the stronghold of the O'Donnell clan, Lords of Tír Conaill and one of the most powerful Gaelic families in Ireland from the 5th to the 16th centuries. For most of the last two centuries, the majority of the buildings lay in ruins but the castle was almost fully restored in the early 1990s. It is now open to the public.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Croome Court</span> Country house in Worcestershire, England

Croome Court is a mid-18th-century Neo-Palladian mansion surrounded by extensive landscaped parkland at Croome D'Abitot, near Upton-upon-Severn in south Worcestershire, England. The mansion and park were designed by Lancelot "Capability" Brown for the 6th Earl of Coventry, and they were Brown's first landscape design and first major architectural project. Some of the mansion's rooms were designed by Robert Adam. St Mary Magdalene's Church, Croome D'Abitot that sits within the grounds of the park is now owned and cared for by the Churches Conservation Trust.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">John Cole, 2nd Earl of Enniskillen</span> Irish politician

John Willoughby Cole, 2nd Earl of Enniskillen, styled Viscount Cole from 1789 to 1803, was an Irish peer and Member of Parliament.

Crom Castle is a country house on the shores of Upper Lough Erne in County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland, the seat of the Earls Erne. Standing within the 1,900-acre (7.7 km2) Crom Estate, and within a formal garden, the castle is built in stone. A central battlemented tower includes the main entrance, and there are also smaller towers to one side. It stands apart from the ruins of Old Crom Castle, of which two towers, some walls, and a ha-ha survive, and near them two ancient yew trees, believed to be at least 800 years old.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Florence Court Forest Park</span>

Florence Court Forest Park is a forest of Northern Ireland.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Florence Court Yew</span>

The Florence Court Yew is the surviving specimen of the two original Irish yew seedlings. As such, it is the oldest Irish yew alive and it is believed that almost all Irish yews worldwide descend from this specimen. It is located in Florence Court demesne in County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland and is cared for by the National Trust.

Belle Isle Castle is an 18th-century house on Belle Isle, an island previously known, in Gaelic times, as Ballymacmanus Island or Senadh-Mic-Maghnusa or, simply, Senad. The Belle Isle Estate stretches over 470-acres near Lisbellaw in County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland. Built solely as a house in the early 17th century, Belle Isle Castle is now expanded and fully refurbished and serves as a popular tourist attraction, hotel and wedding venue. It also contains an on site cookery school. Dating back to the early 17th century, the estate has been inhabited, owned and expanded by generations of nobles including The 1st Earl of Ross. The estate has welcomed the public since 1760 when it began hosting events. In 1991, the castle was fully refurbished to open its doors to more visitors. Since 2018 the estate has welcomed a newer kind of guest, the pine marten, in order to aid with population control of the grey squirrel. The castle contains a gallery, an overlook tower, a courtyard, and a grand banquet hall. It also offers different residences throughout its coach houses and cottages, all of which include unique, different style bedrooms for its guests. The estate encompasses English and Irish furnishings, a grand open fireplace, works by Russian, Irish and English painters, and floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the garden, which has been manifesting since the 18th century.

Blessingbourne House is a large Elizabethan style manor-house situated in parkland near Fivemiletown in County Tyrone, Northern Ireland.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Enniskillen Courthouse</span> Historic site in Enniskillen, County Fermanagh

Enniskillen Courthouse is a judicial facility in East Bridge Street, Enniskillen, County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland. It is a Grade B listed building.

References

  1. Rowan, Alistair, The Buildings of Ireland: North West Ulster (Comprising the Counties of Londonderry, Donegal, Fermanagh and Tyrone), Penguin, London, 1979 p.299
  2. Ltd, e3 Media. "Florence Bourchier Wrey, Mrs Cole (d. 1718) 631037 - National Trust Collections". nationaltrustcollections.org.uk.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
  3. 1 2 3 4 5 6 "Enniskillen Papers" (PDF). Public Record Office of Northern Ireland. 2007.
  4. cited in Tinniswood, Adrian, County Fermanagh, The National Trust, 1998, p.19
  5. 1 2 Rowan, Alistair, The Buildings of Ireland: North West Ulster (Comprising the Counties of Londonderry, Donegal, Fermanagh and Tyrone), Penguin, London, 1979 p.300
  6. "plate between pages 68 and 69 showing similar painting of Nixon Hall, with pedimented doorcase and venetian window above, from Swanzy, Henry Biddall, The Families of French of Belturbet and Nixon of Fermanagh and their Descendants, A.Thom & Co., Dublin, 1873".
  7. "The original Irish Yew Tree at Florence Court". National Trust.
  8. "Florence Court Walled Garden win National Lottery Support". National Trust.
  9. "Florence Court, County Fermanagh". irelandseye.com.
  10. "Kenya considers the life and death of its game", Financial Times , accessed 11 February 2023

Further reading