Victorian Downtown Los Angeles

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1894 drawing by Bruce Wellington Pierce: portion from Third Street (bottom left) to Plaza (top right). The Red Sandstone Courthouse with its clocktower is prominent at center. At upper right is Los Angeles High School on Fort Moore Hill. Central Business District of Los Angeles 1894 from Plaza (r) to Third Street (l).jpg
1894 drawing by Bruce Wellington Pierce: portion from Third Street (bottom left) to Plaza (top right). The Red Sandstone Courthouse with its clocktower is prominent at center. At upper right is Los Angeles High School on Fort Moore Hill.

The late-Victorian-era Downtown of Los Angeles in 1880 was centered at the southern end of the Los Angeles Plaza area, and over the next two decades, it extended south and west along Main Street, Spring Street, and Broadway towards Third Street. Most of the 19th-century buildings no longer exist, surviving only in the Plaza area or south of Second Street. The rest were demolished to make way for the Civic Center district with City Hall, numerous courthouses, and other municipal, county, state and federal buildings, and Times Mirror Square. [1] [2] This article covers that area, between the Plaza, 3rd St., Los Angeles St., and Broadway, during the period 1880 through the period of demolition (1920s–1950s).

Contents

At the time (1880–1900s), the area was referred to as the business center, business section or business district. By 1910, it was referred to as the "North End" of the business district which by then had expanded south to what is today called the Historic Core, along Broadway, Spring and Main roughly from 3rd to 9th streets. [3]

Location

Baist's 1910 map of the area. In blue, superimposed on the map: later changes in Spring and Temple streets, the current path of US-101, and most of the largest buildings standing today. Baist's 1910 Real Estate Map Plate 3 with some post-1920 street alignments shown.jpg
Baist's 1910 map of the area. In blue, superimposed on the map: later changes in Spring and Temple streets, the current path of US-101, and most of the largest buildings standing today.

By the mid-1890s, First and Spring was the center of the business district, and the Bradbury Building, opened in 1893 at Third and Broadway and still standing today, [4] By 1910, the area north of Fourth Street was considered the "North End" of the business district and there were already concerns about its deterioration, as the center of commerce moved to what is now known as the Historic Core, from Third to Ninth streets. [5]

Map

The map shows the street grid in 1910, and shows in blue three important road alignment changes that came in the 1920s–1950s:

Overview of the area

William Henry Jackson panoramic photo of Los Angeles business district, c.1900-1902 with labels.png
William Henry Jackson panoramic photo of Los Angeles business district, c.1900-1902. The view stretches from the Bullard Block just south of Temple and Spring (left, bottom) to the Burdick Block at 2nd and Spring, right. Portions of Main Street and Los Angeles Street are visible behind. The vast majority of buildings in view have been demolished. Today, about half of the area in view is City Hall and its grounds, and most of the rest of the area is home to other buildings in the Civic Center district.

Buildings

Broadway

Temple and Broadway

Cable cars of the Temple Street Cable Railway ran along Temple Street starting in 1886 and were replaced with Pacific Electric streetcars in 1902. [6] [7]

Northwest corner of Temple and Broadway

  • The three-story brick Women's Christian Temperance Union building was erected in 1888 for $45,000. [8] Also known as the Temperance Temple, it has been demolished [9] and was replaced in 1957 by the Los Angeles County Central Heating and Refrigeration Plant. [10]

Southeast corner of Temple and Broadway (Pound Cake Hill, west side of New High St.)

This location was at the time known as Pound Cake Hill. The buildings located here faced New High Street to their east and Broadway to their west. They were as follows: [11]

  • Los Angeles High School, whose original location (1873-1887) was between New High on the west and Broadway on the east, south of Temple Street. It was moved to California and Sand streets, and in 1890 a new facility was built on Fort Moore Hill, immediately north of where Broadway today crosses the Hollywood Freeway. The Pound Cake Hill school was demolished and replaced by:
  • First, the Red Stone Courthouse (or "Red Sandstone Courthouse"), which took over the function of courthouse from the Clocktower Courthouse (also called the Temple Courthouse). It was damaged beyond repair by Long Beach earthquake of 1933 and was torn down in 1936.
  • The Los Angeles County Hall of Records was built next to (south of) the Red Sandstone Courthouse in 1911, After the 1971 San Fernando earthquake, it was determined to be unsafe and it was demolished in 1973. A new Hall of Records was built and opened in 1962, one block west on the south side of Temple between Broadway and Hill.

Currently on the site are:

  • Clara Shortridge Foltz Criminal Justice Center (Los Angeles County Grand Jury)
  • A portion of Grand Park, which stretches mid-block between Temple and First, from City Hall at Spring Street, to the Music Center at Grand Avenue.
Realignment of Spring Street (1925)

The Poundcake Hill buildings originally backed up to Broadway to their west, and faced New High Street to their east. New High Street (see Sanborn map above) was a north-south street that ran parallel to Broadway, and to Spring Street to its east. As part of the construction of City Hall in the early 1920s, New High Street was removed south of Temple, and Spring Street was realigned more towards a north-south orientation, parallel with Broadway, instead of running more northeasterly and meeting Main Street at Temple Street. As a result the Poundcake Hill buildings faced the newly aligned Spring Street until they were demolished.

Southwest corner of Temple and Broadway

Adjacent to the south, mid-block, is a portion of Grand Park.

First and Broadway

Northeast corner of First and Broadway

Northwest corner of First and Broadway

  • Site of the Tajo Building (1896–mid-20th c.). [13] Now the location of the Los Angeles County Law Library. [4]

Southeast corner of First and Broadway and east side of 100 block

  • Site of the Culver Block retail and office building. [14] Now the site of the Times Mirror Square 1973 Pereira Addition, so called because it was designed by William Pereira.
  • South of the Culver Block was the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce building, 128–130 S. Broadway, opened February 12, 1904, [15] a landmark at the time featured on postcards and in books. 6 stories, 4 floors. Ground floor offices included those of the Los Angeles Herald and Consolidated Bank. [16]

Southwest corner of First and Broadway

The southwest corner, during Victorian times the site of unremarkable retail and office buildings, was from 1958 the location of the State Office Building, (1958-60, architect Anson C. Boyd, razed 2006). It was named the Junipero Serra State Office Building, and this moniker would be transferred to the former Broadway Department Store building at 4th and Broadway when it was opened to replace this building in 1998. [17] It is now the location of the New U.S. Courthouse built in 2016, taking up the entire block between Broadway, Hill, First and Second. [18]

Just south of the southwest corner was the Mason Theatre, 127 S. Broadway. Opened in 1903 as the Mason Opera House, 1,600 seats. Benjamin Marshall of the Chicago firm Marshall & Wilson designed the building in association with John Parkinson. Marshall is known for designing the Iroquois Theatre in Chicago. Remodeled in 1924 by Meyer & Holler. Later, as the Mason Theatre, it showed Spanish-language films. Demolished 1955. [19]

145 S. Broadway, [20] site of the C. H. Frost Building, later known as the Haig M. Prince Building. Built 1898, architect John Parkinson, [21] Now the location of the new United States Courthouse built in 2016, taking up the entire block between Broadway, Hill, First and Second. [18]

Second and Broadway

Northeast corner of Second and Broadway

One of several “Hellman Buildings” across Downtown L.A. — not to be confused with the still-existing Hellman Building at Fourth and Spring — was located here (#138) from 1897 to 1959. [22] The site is now a parking structure, part of the Times Mirror Square complex.

Southwest corner of Second and Broadway and the west side of the 200 block

The west side of the 200 block of South Broadway had a key place in the retail history of Los Angeles from the 1893 through 1917, as it was home to several prominent early department stores such as the Ville de Paris, Coulter's department store from 1905–1917, and J. W. Robinson's "Boston Dry Goods" store from 1895–1915. All three stores would move to Seventh Street when it became the upscale shopping street between 1915 and 1917.

  • On the southwest corner of 2nd and Broadway was Judge O'Melveny's house, built in 1870. This was replaced by the American National Bank (later California Bank) Building, which one turn was replaced by the California Building in 1911. Nos. 201-213 Broadway are now known named the Broadway Media Center.

Further south on the west side of Broadway, was 207–211, location of the:

  • YMCA Building (#207–209–211), Romanesque Revival architecture, opened in July 1889, demolished in 1903.
    • The YMCA operated here at #207 from 1889 until 1903,
    • City of London opened here in August 1891, run by Messrs. Hiles and Niccolls, who came from the City of Paris department store. It carried curtains, window shades, comforters, and the like. [23] It operated here until August 1895, when it moved next door to the Potomac Block at #213. [24]

The YMCA Building was demolished to make way for the:

  • Merchants Trust Co. Building. [25]
Coulter's complex: Potomac and Bicknell blocks

The adjacent Potomac Block and Bicknell Block originally housed prominent retailers of the day, then were joined together in 1906 by Coulter's department store to form a complex, opening it as a new, 157,000 sq ft (14,600 m2) store in June, 1905. [26] [27] [28]

Potomac Block

The Potomac Block, 213–223 S. Broadway, was from 1905 to 1917 known as the B. F. Coulter Building. It was originally developed by lumberyard and mill owner J. M. Griffith. It was designed in 1888 by Block, Curlett and Eisen in Romanesque architectural style [29] and opened on July 17, 1890. [30]

Tenants included:

  • Ville de Paris department store (at 221–223, from 1893 through 1906), [29]
  • City of London Dry Goods Co., which moved here from next door at #211 in August 1895 and advertised for this location through August 1899. [24]

It was the first time major retail stores opened on South Broadway, in what would be a shift of the upmarket shopping district from 1890 to 1905 from around First and Spring to South Broadway. In 1904, Coulter's bought the Potomac Block, and combined it with the Bicknell block to create its new store that opened in 1905.

After Coulter's moved:

  • 215 continued as a branch of Coulter's through 1927. Then, 215–217 was home to the Pacific Furniture House in the 1940s.
  • 219 housed Fisch's Department Store in the 1940s.

The building was demolished in 1953 and is still the site of a parking lot. [31]

Bicknell Block

The Bicknell Block (or Bicknell Building) at 225–229 S. Broadway, with back entrances at 224–228 S. Hill Street. was part of Coulter's from 1905 from 1917. After Coulter's moved in 1917, it housed the Western Shoe Co. (through 1922), later known as the Western Department Store (1922–1928). Lettering covered the face of the building from top to bottom through the end of the 1950s: "THE LARGEST SHOE DEPT. IN THE WEST". [32]

Further south on Broadway
  • 231-235, the Harris Newmark Building (1899, Abram Edelman), Bartlett Music Co. (#233), annex to J. W. Robinson's (#235); Goodwill Industries store (#233-235, 1950s–60s). The building still stands, but all floors except the ground floor have been removed.
  • 237-241, the Boston Dry Goods Building (completed 1895, demolished, architects Theodore Eisen and Sumner Hunt, designer of the Bradbury Building) [33] [34] The building was home to J. W. Robinson's "Boston Dry Goods" store from 1895 to 1915, Scott's Department Store (239–241, 1920s), Third Street Store (237–241, 1950s–60s). Demolished, currently the site of a parking lot.
  • 251 was home to the I. Magnin speciality department store, which opened here on January 2, 1899; [35] starting 1904, I. Magnin announced that the store would be known by the name of its manager, Myer Siegel. [36]

Southeast corner and east side of Broadway from 2nd to 3rd

The southeast corner of 2nd and Broadway was the site of

  • The First Presbyterian Church was located here in 1894. [37] The church was replaced sometime before 1906 by the:
  • Nolan, Smith and Bridge Building, #200-4 S. Broadway, stores and a restaurant. [38]
  • Now the corner is the site of the Historic Broadway underground light rail station.

Mid-block were:

  • Crocker Building, #212–6 [39] Home to Victor Clothing from 1920 to 1964
  • B'nai B'rith Temple (1873), 214 S. Broadway (post-1890 numbering), the city's first synagogue, razed to make way for the Copp Building, 218–224 S. Broadway, home to the original (1908) Pig 'n Whistle candy shop and tea room. [40] The Pig 'n Whistle would open locations at 7th and Broadway and in Hollywood, where it would become a landmark restaurant that still operates today.
  • City Hall (1888–1928; opened 1888, demolished 1929; 228–238 S. Broadway, architect Solomon Irmscher Haas, Romanesque Revival). Now a parking lot. Three stories, it had a 150-foot (46 m) campanile. Red and brown brick. Housed the Los Angeles Public Library for a time until it moved to the new Hamburger's department store building at Eighth and Broadway in 1908. [41] The site is now part of the "(213) S. Spring" parking garage. [4]
  • #240-246 the Hosfield Building, location of the Natatorium (indoor swimming pool) in 1894 and the Imperial Restaurant in 1906. [39] After 1964, location of Victor Clothing, notable for its changing murals reflecting local Chicano culture. Victor Clothing operated here until 2001, and was known i.a. for its frequent ads on Spanish-language television. [42]

Third and Broadway

Northwest corner of Third and Broadway

The corner is home to one of the oldest buildings outside the Plaza area, the 1895 Irvine Byrne Block or Byrne Block; now called the Pan American Lofts. The architect was Sumner Hunt. It was built in a hybrid Spanish Colonial Revival/Beaux-Arts style.

The building was home to the renowned I. Magnin clothing store that opened here on January 2, 1899; [43] on June 19, 1904, I. Magnin announced that the Los Angeles store would henceforth be known as Myer Siegel. [36] After a fire at the Irvine Byrne Building destroyed its store on February 16, 1911, Myer Siegel moved further south on Broadway.

It was modernized and converted to lofts in 2007 and given its present name. The halls and staircase have appeared in many of Alfred Hitchcock's movies, Brad Pitt's Se7en, Fight Club, Blade Runner, and other TV shows and commercials. [44]

From Third Street south to Olympic Blvd. (originally Tenth St.), and from Hill Street east to Los Angeles Street, including Broadway, is the Historic Core district, the city's main commercial and entertainment area in the first half of the 20th century.

Northeast corner of Third and Broadway

On this corner: [45]

  • Originally the J. C. Graves house stood here; Graves bought the property in 1879 for $2,250. The house was sold and removed to 10th and Hope streets in 1888.
  • Rindge Block (1898, sold in 1899 for $190,000 to Frederick H. Rindge, the "King of Malibu"), 248–260 S. Broadway, commercial building; the top floors were removed and only the ground floor remains.

Southwest corner of Third and Broadway

Southeast corner of Third and Broadway

Spring Street

West side of Spring south of Temple

Along the west side of Spring Street were the following buildings. Spring was realigned in the 1920s and now runs west of these sites, and the sites where these buildings once stood are now part of the full city block on which City Hall stands:


Phillips Block

At the northwest corner of Franklin and Spring stood two buildings in succession, the Rocha Adobe, then the Phillips Block. The site now lies under the current course of Spring Street, which was straightened, i.e. realigned to run further west, in the 1920s.

  • The Rocha Adobe (built 1820 as a residence for Antous Jose Rocha), 31–33 Spring Street (pre-1890 numbering), which from 1853–1884 served as the City Hall, and a building in the yard behind it served as the city and county jail. [55] It was demolished and in its place was built:
  • Phillips Block (four-and-a-half stories, opened in 1888, Burgess J. Reeve, French Renaissance Revival architecture), 25–37 N. Spring St. (pre-1890 numbering) at the northwest corner of Franklin St., backing up to New High Street to the west. Owned by Pomona Valley rancher Louis Phillips, it cost $260,000. There was 120 feet (37 m) of frontage on Spring Street, 218 feet (66 m) on Franklin, and 121 feet (37 m) along New High Street. This building was the second four-story structure in Los Angeles. It was sometimes called Phillips Block No. 1 (there was a "Phillips Block No. 2" at 135–145 Los Angeles Street, on the west side between Market and First streets). [56] In July 1888, Asher Hamburger opened the Peoples Store here, later known as Hamburger's; it became the largest retail store in the Western United States. In 1908 it moved to 8th and Broadway, and in 1923 Hamburger sold it to May Co. and it became May Company California. [57] The Phillips Block was demolished in the mid-1920s to make way for the realigned Spring Street and today's City Hall.
Franklin to First

At the southwest corner of Franklin Street from 1894–1905 was Harris & Frank's London Clothing Co. with its landmark clock. [58] [59] Harris & Frank went on to become a chain of junior department stores for men's clothing across the region.

East side of Spring south of Temple

Temple Block

The triangular space where Spring and Main Streets came together at the south side of Temple Street was the site of Temple Block: actually a collection of different structures that occupied the block bounded by Spring, Main and Temple. The first or Old Temple Block built by Francisco (F. P. F.) Temple in 1856, was of adobe, two stories, facing north to Temple. This was incorporated into a later, expanded Temple Block in 1871, and then demolished. George P. McLain wrote that upon his arrival in the town in 1868, Temple Block had been the undisputed center of commerce and social life in the town. Even into the early 1880s, it was considered the city's most stately building. It housed many law offices, including those of Stephen M. White, Will D. Gould and Glassell, Chapman and Smith. [60] The block had a key role in the retail history of Los Angeles, as it was the first home to several upscale retailers who would become big names in the city: Desmond's (1870–1882) [61] and Jacoby Bros. (1879–1891). [62] It was also home to the Odd Fellows, the Fashion Saloon, the Temple and Workman Bank, Slotterbeck's gun shop, the Wells Fargo office. The northeast corner was home to Adolph Portugal's dry goods store (1874-1879?), Jacoby Bros. (1879–1891) and Cohn Bros. (1892–1897), in succession. [63] [64]

In 1925-7 this block and other surrounding areas were demolished to make way for the current Los Angeles City Hall.

Along the south side of Temple Block was Market Street, a small street running between Spring and Main.

Clocktower Courthouse/Bullard Block

Taking up the small block immediately south of Temple Block between Market and Court streets, facing both Spring and Main streets, were two buildings in succession:

    • Clock Tower Courthouse: Just south of Temple Block across tiny Market Street was a building known by many names including Temple Courthouse, Temple Market, Temple Theater, Old County Courthouse, etc. Also built by John Temple, in 1858, originally as a market (ground floor) and theater (upper floor). Demolished 1890s. [65] [66] Served as a market and retail as well as the County Courthouse 1861-1891 until the Red Sand Courthouse was finished. [67] Topped by a rectangular tower with a clock on all four sides. [68] [69] The Clock Tower Courthouse was demolished in 1895 and replaced by:
    • Bullard Block, built in 1895-6, architects Morgan & Walls, [70] 154–160 N. Spring, NE corner of Court Street. Replaced the Clocktower Courthouse. Housed The Hub Clothing Co., a large department store for apparel. See also the photo below of "La Fiesta". Demolished 1925-6 to make way for current Los Angeles City Hall. [71]
Court south to First

  • Court Street, a small street running between Spring and Main. At 12-14-16 Court Street (pre-1890 numbering). 112–116 Court St. (post 1890 numbering) was the Tivoli Theatre which opened and closed in 1890, lasting less than a year. From 1891 through 1902, the venue was the (New) Vienna Buffet, a restaurant with live music where scandal occurred, and gatherings of gay men including what were then called "she boys". [72] Then from 1902–c.1910, the site was the Cineograph Theatre, a vaudeville venue. From 1918–1925 it was marked the Chinese Theatre with the Sun Jung Wah Co. performing Chinese plays. [73]
  • H. Jevne & Co. grocers were located at 38–40 (after 1890: 136-138) N. Spring (the older "Wilcox Block", also known as the Strelitz Block) from 1890-1896 before moving to the Wilcox Building when it opened at 2nd and Spring. [74] [75]
  • Jacoby Bros. dry goods store was located at 128–134 N. Spring St. from 1891-1900, and added the Jevne premises in 1896 (thus encompassing all of 128 through 138 N. Spring). The store moved to Broadway south of 3rd St. in 1900, [76] [77] another signal that the upscale shopping district was moving southwest away from this area at that time.

First and Spring

The image at above left looks south past the intersection of First and Spring sometime around 1900–1906. The spire of the Wilson Block is prominent on the left, as is the Nadeau Hotel on the right. In the foreground we can see the Los Angeles National Bank to the left and the Larronde Block to the right. From First to Second streets, Spring Street is still a busy shopping district, though Broadway is also just becoming popular for more upscale shopping. An electric streetcar heads to Griffin Avenue in Montecito Heights, on what would become Line 2 of the Los Angeles Railway. Today, this view would be of the 2009 LAPD Headquarters taking up the entire block on the left and on the right, the 1935 Los Angeles Times Building, and behind it, the 1948 Crawford Mirror Addition building.

Northwest corner of First and Spring

  • Larronde Block, built in 1882 at a cost of $10,000, [79] 211 W. 1st St., also 101–105 N. Spring, two stories, [78] offices and retail shops, including:
  • California State Building (completed 1931, opened 1932, architect John C. Austin, 1931, demolished 1976). [82]
  • The lot is currently vacant

Northeast corner of First and Spring

  • Los Angeles National Bank Building (1887-1906), demolished and replaced by the
  • Equitable Building (Equitable Savings Bank, 1906-1920s) [83]


First Street from Spring to Main

First Street east of Spring: Widney Block (i.e. Joseph Widney), built in 1883, along the north side. The main Olmsted & Wales bookstore was located in the block in the mid-1880s.

Southwest corner of First and Spring

  • Nadeau Block or Nadeau Hotel, built 1881-2, demolished 1932, designed by architects Kysor & Morgan, located at the southwest corner of Spring and First streets. It was the first four-story building in the city. [84]
  • This corner is now the site of the Los Angeles Times Building, opened 1935, part of the Times Mirror Square complex taking up the entire block between Spring, Broadway, First and Second streets, formerly the headquarters of the Los Angeles Times , currently vacant.

Southeast corner of First and Spring

Four buildings have stood here in succession:

  • The George S. Wilson homestead [85]
  • Wilson Block, sometimes called the city's first skyscraper. [86] Built 1886-8. Demolished around 1927. [87] The corner is now occupied by the Los Angeles Police Department Headquarters Building, completed in 2009. [88] The site is now home to:

Second and Spring

Northwest corner of Second and Spring

It was replaced by the 1948 Crawford Addition building, part of the Times Mirror Square complex, currently vacant.

Northeast corner of Second and Spring

  • Burdick Block, a.k.a. the Trust Building, 127 W. 2nd St., 1888 (Jasper Newton Preston), top stories added 1900 (John Parkinson). In 1910, refitted and rechristened the American Bank Building. Now site of the Los Angeles Police Department Headquarters which occupies the entire block from First to Second and from Spring to Main, completed 2009. [91] [92]

Southwest corner of Second and Spring

Southeast corner of Second and Spring

  • Wilcox Building, built 1895-6, architects Pissis and Moore, five stories. All but the ground floor were removed in 1971 after damage from the 1971 Sylmar earthquake. It housed the larger of two branches of the H. Jevne & Co. gourmet grocery store, as well as the California Club until 1904, when the latter moved to Fourth and Hill streets. The Southwestern School of Law was on its top floors 1915–1924. [94]

200 block

On the west side:

Two theatres together called the Perry Buildings:

On the east side:

Third and Spring

Northwest corner of Third and Spring

  • Hammel and Denker Block (opened 1890, demolished 1899); [103] Henry Hammel and Andrew H. Denker were business partners in hotels and ranching. Thomas Douglas Stimson bought it in 1893, thus owning two buildings at this intersection: this one and the Stimson Block (see below). Leading dry goods retailer Frank, Grey & Co. opened here in 1890 [104] and the store was later taken bought by, and turned into a branch of J. M. Hale. [105]
  • The Hammel & Denker Block was demolished and replaced by the Douglas Block in 1899 and still standing, now condos. [106]
  • To the west of the Douglas Block stood the Metropolitan Barber Shop, originally at 214 W. 3rd, in 1908 it moved to 215-9 W. 3rd. The Los Angeles Herald claimed it to be the largest barber shop in the world at that time and the most expensive ever constructed, with 30 chairs, chandeliers and mahogany furnishings. [107]

Northeast corner of Third and Spring

  • Stimson Block or Stimson Building, built 1893, architect Carroll H. Brown (also designed the Stimson House), demolished 1963. The city's tallest building when it opened. Built for lumber magnate Thomas Douglas Stimson. Now site of a parking lot. [108]

Southwest corner of Third and Spring

Southeast corner of Third and Spring

  • Site of the Lankershim Building (1896-7, Robert Brown Young, demolished 1959). [112] Now the site of the Ronald Reagan State Building.

Main Street

Main from Plaza south to Arcadia

Pico House

Pico House was a luxury hotel built in 1870 by Pío Pico, a successful businessman who was the last Mexican Governor of Alta California. With indoor plumbing, gas-lit chandeliers, a grand double staircase, lace curtains, and a French restaurant, the Italianate three-story, 33-room hotel was the most elegant hotel in Southern California. It had a total of nearly eighty rooms. The Pico House is listed as a California Historical Landmark (No. 159).

Masonic Hall

Masonic Hall at 416 N. Main St., was built in 1858 as Lodge 42 of the Free and Accepted Masons. The building was a painted brick structure with a symbolic "Masonic eye" below the parapet. In 1868, the Masons moved to larger quarters further south. Afterward, the building was used for many purposes, including a pawn shop and boarding house. It is the oldest building in Los Angeles south of the Plaza.

Merced Theater

The Merced Theater, completed in 1870, was built in an Italianate style and operated as a live theatre from 1871 to 1876. When the Woods Opera House opened nearby in 1876, the Merced ceased being the city's leading theatre. [113] Eventually, it gained an "unenviable reputation" because of "the disreputable dances staged there, and was finally closed by the authorities." [114]

Plaza House

This two-story building at 507–511 N. Main St. houses part of the LA Plaza de Cultura y Artes, which includes the Vickrey -Brunswig Building next door. [115] It is inscribed on its upper floor, and on 1890s maps it is marked, "Garnier Block" (not to be confused with the Garnier Block/Building on Los Angeles Street, one block away). Commissioned in 1883 by Philippe Garnier, once housed the "La Esperanza" bakery. [116]

Vickrey-Brunswig Building

This five-story brick building facing the Plaza at 501 N. Main St. houses LA Plaza de Cultura y Artes, which also occupies the Plaza House next door. It was built in 1888 and combines Italianate and Victorian architecture; the architect was Robert Brown Young. [117]

Site of Sentous Building

The Sentous Block or Sentous Building (19th c., demolished late 1950s) was located at 615-9 N Main St., with a back entrance on 616-620 North Spring St. (previously called Upper Main St., then San Fernando St.). Designed in 1886 by Burgess J. Reeve. Louis Sentous was a French pioneer in the early days of Los Angeles. [118] The San Fernando Theatre was located here. The site is now part of the El Pueblo parking lot. [119] [120]


West side of Main from Republic south to Temple

This block is part of the site of the current Spring Street Courthouse. Buildings previously located here include:

Northwest corner of Temple and Main

On this corner stood four buildings in succession, the first two of which had a key role in the history of retail in Southern California, as it was home to a number of upscale retailers who would later grow to be big names in the city, and some, regional chains.

East side of Main from Arcadia south to Commercial

Baker Block

  • Baker Block, 334–348** N. Main at the southeast corner of Arcadia Street, opened late 1878, Second Empire architecture. The Baker Block was erected on the site of Don Abel Stearns' adobe mansion also called El Palacio, built in 1835-1838 and demolished in August and September of 1877; [132] Col. Robert S. Baker who had the Baker Block built, had married Stearns' widow, Arcadia Bandini de Stearns Baker. When built, it was called the "finest emporium of commerce south of San Francisco". The ground floor housed retail tenants such as Coulter's (1879–1884), George D. Rowan and Eugene Germain. The second floor was offices, and the third floor held the city's most upscale apartments. In 1919, Goodwill Industries bought the building and opened its store and operations. That is not to say though, that nobody fought to save the building. The Metropolitan Garden Association tried to move the Baker Block to another location for use as a public recreation center, while city councilman Arthur E. Briggs raised funds to convert the building into a city history museum. Nonetheless, in 1941, Goodwill sold the building to the city, which demolished it in 1942. Currently, the US 101 freeway, and the new, more southerly route of Arcadia Street, run over most of the site. [133]

South of Baker Block

South of the Baker Block stood buildings that are now the site of the northwestern-most part of the Los Angeles Mall:

  • Downey Building (not to be confused with the "Downey Block"), 324–330** N. Main, opened 1878, three stories, captured in a 1957 color photo standing alone as the last building on the block, demolished that year. [134] In the 1930s photo above, it is home to the Librería Española.
  • Grand Central Hotel, opened 1876, demolished.
  • Pico Building, 318-322** N. Main, opened 1867, the city’s first bank building, to house the new Hellman, Temple & Co. bank, then in 1871 the first location of Hellman’s own bank Farmers and Merchants Bank of Los Angeles, forerunner of Security Pacific National Bank. Later tenants included the Los Angeles County Bank (1874-1878), Charles H. Bush, jeweler and watchmaker (1878-1905), Louis E. Pearlson’s jewelry, loan and pawnshop (from 1905), as well as several barber shops and then a succession of owner-operated restaurants. The last occupants were a jewelers and the Mexican restaurant Arizona Cafe #2. Demolished 1957 to make way for a parking lot. [135]
  • Bella Union Hotel, later the St. Charles Hotel, 314–316** N. Main. Opened 1835, demolished 1940. Home to the Azteca Cafe in the 1930s.
  •  312 N. Main, two stories, home to a saloon in the mid-1890s
  •  306–308 N. Main, three stories, home to offices (at #308) and Bright's Cheap Store (#306) in 1882. [136]

  • Ducommun Block or Ducommun Building, 300-2-4** N. Main (200-2-4* N. Main). In the 1880s, home to the Ducommun hardware store, a furniture store and Prager Dry Goods. In the early 20th century, site of the Security Pacific National Bank. [137] Home to the Federal Theatre from c.1913–1917. [138]

The Los Angeles Mall replaced these blocks; it is a small shopping center at the Los Angeles Civic Center, between Main and Los Angeles Streets on the north and south sides of Temple Street, connected by both a pedestrian bridge and a tunnel. It features Joseph Young's sculpture Triforium , with 1,500 blown-glass prisms synchronized to an electronic glass bell carillon. The mall opened in 1974 and includes a four-level parking garage with 2,400 spaces.

East side of Main from Commercial south to First

Currently, this site is the southernmost end of the Los Angeles Mall; Triforium is approximately on the site of Commercial Street. [139]

West side of Main from Temple south to First

This block is, since 1928, the site of Los Angeles City Hall

East side of Main from First to Second

Third from Spring to Main, Third and Main

On the corner of Third and Main: [148]


Buildings along Los Angeles Street

2005 view. Brick buildings at center-left are at the south end of the Plaza. Los Angeles St. runs along the Plaza's right (east) side, south towards the eastern edge of Los Angeles Mall (bottom center). The circular cluster of trees and freeway onramp to the right of the Plaza is the Lugo Adobe site. Behind them is Union Station. Union Station.jpg
2005 view. Brick buildings at center-left are at the south end of the Plaza. Los Angeles St. runs along the Plaza's right (east) side, south towards the eastern edge of Los Angeles Mall (bottom center). The circular cluster of trees and freeway onramp to the right of the Plaza is the Lugo Adobe site. Behind them is Union Station.

Northern end of Los Angeles Street

In 1888, Calle de los Negros had just been renamed, and here is marked Los Angeles Street (only the section from Arcadia to the Plaza). In that same year, but not yet reflected on the map, the Coronel Adobe would be removed to allow Los Angeles Street to continue straight north to the Plaza from Broad Place. North end of Los Angeles Street and former Calle de los Negros, 1888 Sanborn map.jpg
In 1888, Calle de los Negros had just been renamed, and here is marked Los Angeles Street (only the section from Arcadia to the Plaza). In that same year, but not yet reflected on the map, the Coronel Adobe would be removed to allow Los Angeles Street to continue straight north to the Plaza from Broad Place.

The Coronel Adobe was demolished in 1888 and 1896 Sanborn maps show that the Del Valle adobe had been removed, and Los Angeles Street had been extended [149] to form the eastern edge of the Plaza, thus passing in front of the Lugo Adobe. Calle de los Negros remained for a few more decades, behind a row of houses lining the east side of Los Angeles Street between Arcadia and Aliso streets. This was also the western edge of Old Chinatown from around the 1880s through 1930s. It reached eastward across Alameda St. to cover most of the area that is now Union Station. It proceeded one more block past the Plaza, with the buildings on the east side of Olvera Street forming its western edge, until terminating at Alameda Street. [150]

Eastern edge of Plaza

Since the early 1950s, Los Angeles Street has formed the eastern edge of the Plaza, but the buildings lining its eastern edge, including the Lugo Adobe, were removed. [151] [152] The site is now Father Serra Park.

From the Plaza north to Alameda

Placita Dolores, where from 1888 until the 1950s, Los Angeles Street used to run a short block north of the Plaza to terminate at Alameda St. Los Angeles 2009 27 - panoramio.jpg
Placita Dolores, where from 1888 until the 1950s, Los Angeles Street used to run a short block north of the Plaza to terminate at Alameda St.

When it was extended past the Plaza in 1888, [149] Los Angeles Street terminated one short block north of the Plaza at Alameda Street. Now, Los Angeles Street turns east at the north side of the Plaza to terminate at Alameda Street at a right angle, directly across from the Union Station complex. What was the short block of Los Angeles Street north of the Plaza is now part of Placita Dolores, a small open plaza which surrounds a statue of Mexican charro entertainer Antonio Aguilar on horseback. [153]

Calle de los Negros

Until the late 19th century, Los Angeles Street did not form the east side of the Plaza; it ran south only from Broad Place at the intersection of Arcadia Street. Here, the Coronel Adobe blocked the path north one block to the Plaza, but just slightly to the right (east) of the path of Los Angeles Street was Calle de los Negros (Spanish-language name; marked on post-1847 maps as Negro Alley or Nigger Alley), a narrow, one-block north–south street likely named after darker-skinned Mexican afromestizo and/or mulatto residents during the Spanish colonial era. [154] [155] . At the north end of Calle de los Negros stood the Del Valle adobe (also known as the Matthias or Matteo Sabichi house), [156] [157] at the southern edge of which one could turn left and enter the plaza at its southeast corner. Calle de los Negros was famous for its saloons and violence in the early days of the town, and by the 1880s was considered part of Chinatown, lined with Chinese and Chinese American residences, businesses and gambling dens. [158] [159]

The neglected dirt alley was already associated with vice by the early 1850s, when a bordello and its owner both known as La Prietita (the dark-skinned lady) were active here. Its other businesses included malodorous livery stables, a pawn shop, a saloon, a theater and a connected restaurant. Historian James Miller Guinn wrote in 1896, "in the flush days of gold mining, from 1850 to 1856, it was the wickedest street on earth...In length it did not exceed 500 feet, but in wickedness, it was unlimited. On either side it was lined with saloons, gambling hells, dance houses and disreputable dives. It was a cosmopolitan street. Representatives of different races and many nations frequented it. Here the ignoble red man, crazed with aguardiente, fought his battles, the swarthy Sonorian plied his stealthy dagger, and the click of the revolver mingled with the clink of gold at the gaming table when some chivalric American felt that his word of “honah” had been impugned." [154]

By 1871, the alley was notorious as a "racially, spatially, and morally disorderly place", according to historian César López. It was here that a growing number of Chinese immigrant railroad laborers settled after the completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1869. There, William Estrada notes, the "Chinese of Los Angeles came to fill an important sector of the economy as entrepreneurs. Some became proprietors and employees of small hand laundries and restaurants; some were farmers and wholesale produce peddlers; others ran gambling establishments; and some occupied other areas left vacant by the absence of workers in the gold rush migration to California." The Chinese population increased from 14 in 1860 to almost 200 by 1870. Guinn stated that the alley stayed "wicked" through and after its transition to the city's Old Chinatown. [154]

Calle de los Negros was reconfigured in 1888 when Los Angeles Street was extended north, with a small, shallow row of houses remaining between the new section of Los Angeles street's eastern edge and the western edge of the new, shortened alley. [149] [160] The site of Calle de los Negros is now the Pueblo parking lot and a cloverleaf-style entrance to the US 101 freeway.

Coronel Adobe

The Coronel Adobe was built in 1840 by Ygnacio Coronel as a family home. It stood at the northwest corner of Arcadia Street and Calle de los Negros; Los Angeles Street terminated at its southern end. The area gradually became an area for gambling and saloons, and upper-class families left to live elsewhere. Around 1849, they sold the house to a "sporting fraternity", which operated a popular 24-hour gambling establishment with games including monte, faro, and poker; up to $200,000 in gold could be seen on the tables at a time. Arguments ensued and murders were frequent. The building later became a dance hall where "lewd women" were employed, aimed at the Mexican-American population. After that, still in the 1850s, it became a grocery and dry goods store (Corbett & Barker), then a storage house for iron and hard lumber for Harris Newmark Co. It was then leased to a Chinese immigrant. In 1871, it was the site of the Chinese massacre of 1871. The Adobe was torn down in 1888 in order to extend Los Angeles Street north past the Plaza. [149]

Garnier Building

At 419 N. Los Angeles Street, at the northwest corner of Arcadia, is the Garnier Building, built in 1890, part of the Los Angeles' original Chinatown. The southern portion of the building was demolished in the 1950s to make way for the Hollywood Freeway. The Chinese American Museum is now located in the Garnier Building. It should not be confused with another Garnier Block/Building on Main St. a block away now commonly known as Plaza House.


Los Angeles Street was lined with mostly commercial buildings; the southeast end of the business district around Los Angeles and 3rd streets was the Wholesale District. Only a few buildings were notable:

West side south of Arcadia

East side south of Aliso

Transportation

Horsecars (1874–1897)

Cable cars (1885–1902)

Cable car street railways in Los Angeles first began operating up Bunker Hill in 1885, with a total of three companies operating in the period through 1902, [169] when the lines were electrified and electric streetcars were introduced largely following the cable car routes. There were roughly 25 miles of routes, connecting 1st and Main in what was then the Los Angeles Central Business District as far as the communities known today as Lincoln Heights, Echo Park/Filipinotown, and the Pico-Union district.

Electric streetcar systems (1887–1963)

Electrically-powered streetcar systems were numerous starting with the Los Angeles Electric Railway in 1887, but were over time consolidated into two large networks:

Funiculars

Angel's Flight and Court Flight were funicular railways operating from Broadway up Bunker Hill.

Railroad depots

Landmarks shown on schematic map

This is a map of the former and current buildings located in the Victorian business district of Los Angeles around 1890-1905.

Abbreviations and notes

To be read like a map:

For the area to the north, see Los Angeles Plaza Historic District
Temperance Temple (1888–1950s)
Now L.A. County Heating
and Refrigeration Plant.

F
O
R
T

S
T.
/

B
R
O
A
D
W
A
Y
     
B
U
E
N
A
V
I
S
T
A

S
T.
     
N
E
W

H
I
G
H

S
T
R
E
E
T
 

-Lafayette Hotel/
Cosmopolitan Hotel/
St. Elmo Hotel (1850s–?)
-1st Downey Block (?–1871)
2nd Downey Block, (1871–)
later Post Office and Courthouse (1910-1937).
Now Spring Street Courthouse (1940- ).


M
A
I
N

S
T
R
E
E
T

Now US 101
Stearns House (1835-1877)/
BAKER BLOCK (1875–1942)/
—Downey Bldg. (1878-1957)
Grand Central Hotel (1876–?)
—Pico Bldg./ Farmers & Merchants Bank (1867–1957)
Bella Union/St. Charles Hotel (1835–1940)
—Ducommun Block/Security Pacific Bank
Now Los Angeles Mall.

Now US-101 freeway.
Arcadia Block (1858–1927)/




Hellman Block (1870–?)
Now Los Angeles Mall


L
O
S

A
N
G
E
L
E
S

S
T
R
E
E
T
Now US 101
Bell Block
—Mellus Row
(Fremont HQ)
—Hellman, Haas & Co.

Now Federal Building (1965, Welton Becket)

COMMERCIAL ST.COMMERCIAL
Now Hall of Justice (1925)
(N side of Temple
from Broadway to Spring)

—Farmers and Merchants Bank
—L.A. Savings Bank
—Commercial Bank/First National Bank [171]
—New Lanfranco Block (1888)

Now Los Angeles Mall

TEMPLE TEMPLE TEMPLE

Hall of Records (1962)

High School (1873-1887)/
"Red Sandstone" Courthouse (1891-1936)
Now L.A. County Courthouse (1972)
Jones Block
(J. W. Robinson's 1886–1895)
Now part of City Hall site.
S
P
R
I
N
G

S
T
R
E
E
T

Temple
Block
(1858/ 1871–1927)

REQUENA ST.(MARKET)
United States Hotel (1861–1939)Now City Hall East (1972) Parker Center (former LAPD HQ)
MARKET ST.
Court Flight Funicular (1905–1943) PHILLIPS BLOCK (1887–1912), home to Hamburger's Peoples Store (1888–1908)

Clock Tower Courthouse
(1858-1895)
Bullard Block
(1895-1925)/
Now City Hall

Hall of Records (1911-1973) COURT ST.Now Los Angeles Mall. (entire block)
FRANKLIN ST.

—#128–138 Jacoby Bros. DS (1879–1900)
Los Angeles
National Bank
/
Equitable Building (1906-1920s)/
Now Circle Park at City Hall.

Hall of the Amigos del País (1844-?)/
McDonald Block
—#121–127 Jacoby Bros. DS (1879–1900)
Lichtenberger Block
Now Circle Park at City Hall.

German-American
Savings Bank
(1894–1906)


Tajo Building (1896–mid-20th c.)
Now Law Library.

Los Angeles Times Building
(#3, 1912-1938)
Now vacant lot.

Larronde Block (1892-c.1930)/
Calif. State Bldg. (1931–1976)
Now vacant lot.

FIRST ST.FIRST ST.FIRST ST.FIRST ST.FIRST ST.
 #107: Old Junípero Serra
State Office Bldg.
(1958–2006) [172]

U.S. Courthouse
("First Street Courthouse")

(entire block, 2016)


 #127: Mason Opera House (1902-1956) [173]
Culver Block/
Now Times Mirror Square
Pereira building
(1973)
.

Nadeau Hotel (1882–1932)/
Now Times Mirror Square
Kaufmann building
(1935)
.

Wilson Block
(1886–?)
Now LAPD HQ
Natick House
(1883–1950 JP)
Now LAPD HQ

 

 #110: Grand Opera House/
Orpheum Theatre #1
[174]

 

Now Caltrans
(entire block)

Doubletree Hotel
(ex-New Otani)
(1977)
Weller Court mall
 #128-130: Southwest Building
(1903–?;
Chamber of Commerce;
The Herald )
—Louis Roeder Block #1
—Bryson Block
—Mueller's Block
Now LAPD HQ
(built 2009, entire block)

 #141–145: Frost Bldg./
Haig M. Prince Bldg. [175]
Later 7-story
parking garage
(1948–1997) [172]
Now park at U.S. Courthouse.

 #138: Hellman Bldg.
(1897-1959)
Now 221 W. 2nd
parking garage.

Bryson-Bonebrake
Block
(1888)
Now Times Mirror Square
Crawford Bldg. (1948– )

—Corfu Hotel

Burdick Block
(1888-?)
a.k.a. American Bank Bldg.
Now LAPD HQ

H. T. Newell Block (as of 1910, shops and offices)
Now LAPD HQ
SECOND ST.SECOND ST.SECOND ST.SECOND ST.SECOND ST.
Broadway Media Center
—American Natl./California Bank (1878-1911)/ 2nd Calif. Bank Bldg. (1911–?)
—YMCA block (1889-1911)/
Merchants Trust Co. Bldg. (1910–?)

Hollenbeck Hotel

Nolan, Smith & Bridge Bldg. (#200–4)

Now Historic Broadway station under construction.
222 W. 3rd (30-story tower, planned) [176]

Wilcox Building
(1895-6)
Higgins Bldg. (1910)Little Tokyo district
—#213–223 Potomac Block
(1890–1953;
from 1893–1905 Ville de Paris DS;
from 1905–1917 Coulter's DS)
–#237-241 J. W. Robinson's Boston Dry Goods (1895–1915)
Now 213 S. Spring parking garage.

–#206–10 Gordon Bldg. (New King Hotel)
—#212–6 Crocker Bldg. (Victor Clothing 1926–1964)
—#218–224 Copp Bldg. (Pig 'n Whistle)
—#226–8 City Hall (1888-1928)
—#240–6 Hoss Bldg. (Natatorium, Victor Clothing 1964–2001)

Now 213 S. Spring
parking garage.


—#227: 1st Los Angeles Theatre/
2nd Orpheum Theatre/
Lyceum Theatre
(1888–1941) [177]
—#229 Turnverein (Lyceum) Hall (1894-1950s)

Douglas Building (1897)
The Downtown Independent cinemaex-Cathedral of Saint Vibiana (1876)
—#253: Pan American Lofts (prev. Irvine Byrne Block, 1895)Rindge Bldg. (c.1901)Metropolitan Barber Shop [178] Stimson Bldg. (1893–1963)Now misc. retailNow parking garage.
THIRD ST.THIRD ST.THIRD ST.THIRD ST.THIRD ST.
Hotel Ramona (?-1903)/ [179]
Million Dollar Theatre (1917- )
Bradbury Building (1893)Washington Bldg. (1912) Lankershim Bldg.
(1896-7, Robert Brown Young, demolished 1959)
Now Reagan Bldg.
Wesley Roberts Bldg.
Now Reagan Bldg.
Now parking lot.
For the area to the south, see Historic Core

See also

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34°03′11″N118°14′38″W / 34.053°N 118.244°W / 34.053; -118.244